Switch Panels

[load_nikon]

I was wondering what everyone has done for their switches. Where they're mounted. What all they control. Fuses or breakers? Got pics? I'm learning google sketch-up and designing my switch panel is a good start there. Plus, drawing is the cheapest part of the build right? I've been thinking I want my electrical accessories mounted up high; radio, siren, switches, wii. I have a rough POV view of what I think it'll be about like.

http://www.supermotors.net/getfile/683345/fullsize/switch-panel-textured.jpg

The first group, in red, will control emergency lighting.
The rest will be for off road lights and the amber light.
I know I won't need THAT many switches, I just like to overestimate, then under-deliver. Input?

[load_nikon]

oh yea, forgot to mention. the switches will be Carling Technologies: V-Series Contura II sealed switches.
http://www.carlingtech.com/images/photos/switch_v-series-contura-ii.jpg
Specs: http://www.carlingtech.com/pdf/CarlingSW_V2_3.pdf

And who makes this battery disconnect switch?
https://www.caterhamparts.co.uk/images/MW002_2.JPG

[Blanco]

Heres my Pre-runner set up mounted in my Tuffy Center consoles stereo portion.

I run breakers on everything being you can reset them in need be.
You don't always have the right fuse with you when you need it. :rolleyes:
http://www.supermotors.net/getfile/428749/fullsize/img_7849.jpg

There nicely tucked away out of site when not in use.
http://www.supermotors.net/getfile/428745/fullsize/img_7847.jpg

Of course I forget if your building a racer or Pre-runner. :o
For a race truck, I'd see no need to hide them from view when not in use during daily driving duty.

[straightaxle]

Not sure about the battery disconnect.

You don't have too many switches drawn, you will use all of those, so might as well make room for them and more now. Make sure to plan a way to light the switches so you can see what they are in the dark. If you can, go with the ones that have screw terminals instead of spades. The spades will eventually loosen and cause a poor connection. We chased our tail at the Vegas to Reno race with a loose connection that was actually causing the alternator to over charge. Optima's smell terrible when you pump them up to about 18 volts!

Go with the sealed version of switch and circuit breaker if you can. Our circuit breakers are not sealed, but have never caused a problem. I had sealing boots on the original toggle switches, and they gave problems. Finally went to sealed switches, and they have been good.

[Phoenix0783]

That battery swtich looks like a sparco unit. http://www.sparcousa.com/ptuning_acc.asp?id=475

[load_nikon]

Heres my Pre-runner set up mounted in my Tuffy Center consoles stereo portion.

I run breakers on everything being you can reset them in need be.
You don't always have the right fuse with you when you need it. :rolleyes:
...
Of course I forget if your building a racer or Pre-runner. :o
For a race truck, I'd see no need to hide them from view when not in use during daily driving duty.
I don't know what I'm building either! But I like the breaker idea and I want them out in the open, always visible to where I don't have to look at it to see it.
Not sure about the battery disconnect.

You don't have too many switches drawn, you will use all of those, so might as well make room for them and more now. Make sure to plan a way to light the switches so you can see what they are in the dark. If you can, go with the ones that have screw terminals instead of spades. The spades will eventually loosen and cause a poor connection. We chased our tail at the Vegas to Reno race with a loose connection that was actually causing the alternator to over charge. Optima's smell terrible when you pump them up to about 18 volts!

Go with the sealed version of switch and circuit breaker if you can. Our circuit breakers are not sealed, but have never caused a problem. I had sealing boots on the original toggle switches, and they gave problems. Finally went to sealed switches, and they have been good.
I like to drill through spade connections and use screws anyway. And those switches are availible with lights inside.
That battery swtich looks like a sparco unit. http://www.sparcousa.com/ptuning_acc.asp?id=475

Thank you. I just saw that it looked like no other master switch I've seen and wanted to see what all those other terminals were all about.

[Phoenix0783]

The other terminals shut off the alternator so you can kill the car completely if it's running.

[load_nikon]

oh! thats wise..

[XterraRacer]

I did something that has been a great feature. With the airbag and glove box doors gone, it left a large hole. I designed an aluminum dash box on a hinge. One Dzus button and it lays forward and access to all wiring is right there. Take a look at this shot while I look for some build shots.
http://www.teamxterraracing.com/gallery/displayimage.php?album=15&pos=0

(You can click the photo to get a zoom.)

I use the 70 amp pull switch from NAPA, w/screw tabs. I also use pop type circut breaker mounted under the edge to make it very visual when tripped.

[XterraRacer]

Here is the page from the build section.
http://www.teamxterraracing.com/gallery/displayimage.php?album=7&pos=55

Here the switches and breakers are reversed. This did not work as the co-drivers knees could push a switch in. After the first race and a fan getting turned off, I reversed them. It actual made it easier to see if a breaker had popped.

[AngerIssues]

oh yea, forgot to mention. the switches will be Carling Technologies: V-Series Contura II sealed

You are going to have more switches than I have in motor! he he:)

seriously though.. I love switches. That is not too many, but looks way complicated for a new co-driver, who jumps at mile 886 in the dark!! better get a map light!

I like the drawing too

oh... i personally like fuses more, but we keep it simple and stupid (sometimes). what do you do when breaker fails??? (I don't mean re-set it). I mean fries on the inside. On my boat they have been great (breakers). Maybe I'm seeing "the light".

[load_nikon]

I did something that has been a great feature. With the airbag and glove box doors gone, it left a large hole. I designed an aluminum dash box on a hinge. One Dzus button and it lays forward and access to all wiring is right there. Take a look at this shot while I look for some build shots.
http://www.teamxterraracing.com/gallery/displayimage.php?album=15&pos=0

(You can click the photo to get a zoom.)

I use the 70 amp pull switch from NAPA, w/screw tabs. I also use pop type circut breaker mounted under the edge to make it very visual when tripped.
Brilliant! I love the positive tactile feel of those switches, we have similar ones in one of our fire engines. I'm going with the Carling Tech due to their industrial and marine reliability, they're two way rockers, and they're illuminated. I want mine located there so they're driver accessible too. I've been wondering about circuit breakers though.
Here is the page from the build section.
http://www.teamxterraracing.com/gallery/displayimage.php?album=7&pos=55

Here the switches and breakers are reversed. This did not work as the co-drivers knees could push a switch in. After the first race and a fan getting turned off, I reversed them. It actual made it easier to see if a breaker had popped.
I see how that helps. Did you originally mount those switches like that so you could easily see if they're on or off? Like how you said you can more easily see the breakers now?
You are going to have more switches than I have in motor! he he:)

seriously though.. I love switches. That is not too many, but looks way complicated for a new co-driver, who jumps at mile 886 in the dark!! better get a map light!

I like the drawing too

oh... i personally like fuses more, but we keep it simple and stupid (sometimes). what do you do when breaker fails??? (I don't mean re-set it). I mean fries on the inside. On my boat they have been great (breakers). Maybe I'm seeing "the light".
Right, I knew I was overestimating there. And those are just going to be non-drivetrain electrical accessories. I'm just (over)planning ahead. There will definatly be an upgraded dome/map light in the cab once the cage is in. Back to breakers... I'm still undecided on that. I've been thinking of how fuses are transparent and maybe if I get a small light inside the fusebox I'm making, maybe we'd be able to see if any are blown in the dark. With the small pile of electrical stuff I have laying around, I think I'll be testing that idea soon and I'll let you all know.