Axles?

[Dust]

I haven't read the rules but I'm going to ask the question anyway because I’m curious! On the trail the KingPin RR D60 is the rage...
Blazer/Bronco are both solid axle trucks, in the early years anywayz.

What are you running for axles front and rear.
I’ve seen Pix of the truss on Moss’s front so obviously some reinforcement is necessary and legal…
What other mods do you make, 300M shafts and uberbling joints, and or????

Dust

[3amigo]

A 60 would probably be overkill for a c3. I think a currie 9" with 60 outers would be ideal.

[Blanco]

Heres my Rear that I hope will hold up to Class 3 when I start... http://www.thewebwheeler.com/forums/images/smilies/shrug.gif

35 splined with a ARB
http://www.supermotors.net/getfile/294310/fullsize/IMG_3635.JPG

If I would of know I was gonna try out Class 3, I would went with a Full Floater..:o

[Grimm]

I believe the rules state that the axles must be the same as the stock ( if it came with a 9" than you can run a 9", but if it came with a D44 you can't upgrade to a D60). Any gear, axle shafts, spline count Ect. can be used

[Dust]

I believe the rules state that the axles must be the same as the stock ( if it came with a 9" than you can run a 9", but if it came with a D44 you can't upgrade to a D60). Any gear, axle shafts, spline count Ect. can be used

Got'a run this AM...
Would the rules allow a D44 with D60 Outers (from the "C" out) Ya suppose?

Dust

[roach]

again, this class is not as stock as many of you think.

CR25:
differentials.
" REAR DIFF IS "OPEN" but remain stock concept. gear ratios, carriers, axles and floating hubs are optional. front axle must be a production TYPE but axle tubes may be replace".

a 9" rear end and a custom built chrisman 11" are the same concept, just not the same part (OR PRICE!!!!!) the front must be production "TYPE", not the production one, but a production type.

[roach]

motor - open (just keep it a cast iron block only)
tranny - open
transfer case - open
brakes - open
rear diff - open
shocks - open
steering - open
ignition - open
wheels and tires - open
batteries - open
driveshafts - open
exhaust - open

i think that with these items alone, someone with a lot of money to burn could make a killer class 3 capable of eating some lower class'd 8 trucks. i wish i had the money!

[straightaxle]

OK, here's the axle thread, sorry Cam........

The Currie piece is a good axle, I think you'll be fine. Consider some armor on the bottom.

There are guys running 9" in the front, which is a production "type". I guess I could cure my spider gear problem by going in that direction. Just send over another wheelbarrow full of C notes..........

We are currently running some alloy axles and CTM joints in the front, courtesy of our differential shop. The plan is to run it until something breaks. They are all stock D44 dimensions. Whatever you do, don't run the tired old stockers, you probably don't know where they've been. We rarely use low range in Baja, but the axles get a ton of shock loading. You can get new Dana parts pretty reasonably, I get my stuff through West Coast Differentials.

[Blanco]

The Currie piece is a good axle, I think you'll be fine. Consider some armor on the bottom.

You mean like this?
http://www.supermotors.net/getfile/302308/fullsize/IMG_4501.JPG

[3amigo]

Heres my Rear that I hope will hold up to Class 3 when I start... http://www.thewebwheeler.com/forums/images/smilies/shrug.gif

35 splined with a ARB
http://www.supermotors.net/getfile/294310/fullsize/IMG_3635.JPG

If I would of know I was gonna try out Class 3, I would went with a Full Floater..:o

Sure is a purty axle you got there mister.

[Blanco]

Sure is a purty axle you got there mister.

Actually Thats the housing..
heres my actual axles.. ;)
Mine on left. 35 spline & the factory 31 spline on the right.
http://www.supermotors.net/getfile/274424/fullsize/IMG_0807.JPG
http://www.supermotors.net/getfile/274421/fullsize/IMG_0805.JPG

[straightaxle]

You mean like this?
http://www.supermotors.net/getfile/302308/fullsize/IMG_4501.JPG

That thing might be OK for an FJ, not a Bronco! Picture it bent up into the yoke, or bent forward after backing up over something. Just something to add some meat to the bottom of the housing. I like welded, not bolted. Enough race miles, and the housing will wear through.

[Blanco]

That thing might be OK for an FJ, not a Bronco! Picture it bent up into the yoke, or bent forward after backing up over something. Just something to add some meat to the bottom of the housing. I like welded, not bolted. Enough race miles, and the housing will wear through.

http://www.thewebwheeler.com/forums/images/smilies/humm_smilie.gif......................Interesting comments.

I'll look into possible welding some reinforcements to the front.
But as the rear goes it would just wrap up around the back more & thats ok. http://www.thewebwheeler.com/forums/images/smilies/shrug.gif
http://www.supermotors.net/getfile/296329/fullsize/dsc02689.jpg

http://www.supermotors.net/getfile/296328/fullsize/dsc02687.jpg
Here I can see room for additional bracing on the front....
http://www.supermotors.net/getfile/296327/fullsize/dsc02685.jpg

Thanks for your input Don.

[pigracing]

Heres my Rear that I hope will hold up to Class 3 when I start... http://www.thewebwheeler.com/forums/images/smilies/shrug.gif

35 splined with a ARB
http://www.supermotors.net/getfile/294310/fullsize/IMG_3635.JPG

If I would of know I was gonna try out Class 3, I would went with a Full Floater..:o


Bonner inspiring.
As others mentioned I'd imagine you'd be fine running that. I know a lot of the 1450 guys run junk yard 9's and never have a problem.

[steveG]

Here's a pic of my Autofab skid plate (stock rear axle).

http://www.supermotors.net/getfile/477990/fullsize/img_4144-(3).jpg

[straightaxle]

Here's a pic of my Autofab skid plate (stock rear axle).

http://www.supermotors.net/getfile/477990/fullsize/img_4144-(3).jpg


Now see, the Autofab version is shorter, and has bends that will resist the bending up into the yoke. At the back, it looks like it is attached to the back of the housing. The one Cam is showing is just a flat plate, with nothing to connect it at the back. We're not worried about it bending up, it's when it bends down and turns into a plow. I've seen entire floor pans on open wheel buggies bent down. How's that happen when they are always moving forward? Shiat happens! Sure, you can stop and unbolt it (where do your feet go if its a buggy?) but remember, you're in a race!

[Blanco]

I've not been trying to Argue with you....... Just wondering what you thought of my set up. http://www.thewebwheeler.com/forums/images/smilies/shrug.gif

[roach]

ok, every on get off cam's back!!:D

[straightaxle]

Sorry Cam, I thought that was some random picture you had taken of a guard, not the one you already had! I did not realize you can just get a glimpse of it in your current avatar. What do they say, one in the hand is better than two in the bush? Run what you got!

[Blanco]

Sorry Cam, I thought that was some random picture you had taken of a guard, not the one you already had! I did not realize you can just get a glimpse of it in your current avatar. What do they say, one in the hand is better than two in the bush? Run what you got!

LOL! I thought you knew that was mine.....

But I did see your points though...

& yeah I'm just gonna run what I have now until I see the need for another upgrade...

Right now I'm more into the major stuff that gets me closer to the Class. :cool:

[Dust]

So, I think that the rear is a fairly straight forward set of options.
I am really more concerned about the front. In the past 30-years of wheeling I have never failed a D44 that was the axles fault and the failures have all been the U-joint.
I am in all likelihood going to build a hybrid front axle for my new trail runner.
The layout is simple now that the silly rock-krawlers have pushed the aftermarket to making various axle parts.
Basically a Ford 9” axle. A True Hi-9 center section. Then A CrMo Housing and Dana 60 “C’s” and knuckles which because the Hi-9 is available in 35-Spl allows D60 35-spline shafts hub to hub. Less weight then the D60 and virtually all of the strength in the differential and ALL of the shaft and Joint strength that the aftermarket has to offer which in-case you don’t know is a custom CV axle shaft having more strength turned full lock then the d60 shaft has when straight!.
Would this be legal in C3?
It is the same “Type” in that it is a solid axle…

Dust

[Salttoy]

Shoud be legal.

[Norra 1000]

My plan on the front axle is a hand fabed 9" with Dana 60 crane C inner and custom outer spindles, all this will be built in my shop, As far as axle shafts i have a friend in town that makes un breakable dana 60 shafts, Check out www.longfieldsuperaxles.com they are super trick but they are not cheap, The rear will be a standard fabed 9" floater, I hope this holds for 1000 miles