'95 4X2 F150 wants to add a Transfercase.

[Blanco]

A friend of mine wants to install a Tranfercase to his his 2 wheel drive F150..

He dont wanna go 4X4..

What he wants is to have the option to use the low range in the transfer case, & more importantly he like the idea of being able to flat tow the truck with out removing the drive shaft.

He's figuring he'd just put the transfer case in nuetral to Flat tow it behind his motorhome.

We realize it needs to be a full mechanical Transfer case & not an electric push button type.

But he mentioned something about how on chevys they have this thing where if the transfer case dont feel the load from both driveshafts it wont ingauge in to low range or something like that.

Do any of you see any issues with why he could'nt simply swap in a F150's transfercase & mount & shaft & be ready to go? :confused:

Thanks for your help.

Here'a a Pic of his F150..
http://www.supermotors.net/getfile/489957/fullsize/img_1595.jpg

[151FAB]

I don't have an answer for you but I found this while doing my daily classified search extravaganza.

1356 bronco t-case for $150:
http://www.race-dezert.com/cgi-bin/trader/atl.cgi?ct=2&mct=&md=second&id=26901

[RelentlessPursuitRacing]

What he wants is to have the option to use the low range in the transfer case, & more importantly he like the idea of being able to flat tow the truck with out removing the drive shaft.

He's figuring he'd just put the transfer case in nuetral to Flat tow it behind his motorhome.
http://www.supermotors.net/getfile/489957/fullsize/img_1595.jpg

He might burn up (over heat) the T-case by flat towing in neutral, and trash the hardening of parts like the ouput shaft. On the early Bronco's it will do this. And you usually don't know it until a later date when you are four wheeling and have some loads on it and you break an output shaft. VERY COMMON. When you drop the T-CASE in neutral, the rear output shaft (turned by the rear driveshaft) does NOT turn all the gears in the t-case, which normally slings the gear oil up and lubes everything and keeps it cool. So, check into this very closely before you flat tow without removing the rear driveshaft or use a full floater with hubs that you can unlock.

[navman]

Why Would you want to spend time and $ to add weight and more moving parts. that are not needed. Buy t-case,hole in floor for shifter,drive line work.Seems to me easy to pull 4 bolts and hang drive line if its flanged or 4nuts and 2 u-bolts and tape cups and hang shaft. This could not take that long

[Blanco]

I like the full floater idea. :)

Would simply unlocking the rears hubs solve the Problem? :confused:

Unlock & leave in the shaft in & your good to flat tow?

Also seems easier than swaping in T-Case & so forth.

[RelentlessPursuitRacing]

I like the full floater idea. :)



Would simply unlocking the rears hubs solve the Problem? :confused:
YES, SIMPLE.

Unlock & leave in the shaft in & your good to flat tow?
YES

Also seems easier than swaping in T-Case & so forth.
YES

[straightaxle]

I like the full floater idea. :)

Would simply unlocking the rears hubs solve the Problem? :confused:

Unlock & leave in the shaft in & your good to flat tow?

Also seems easier than swaping in T-Case & so forth.

You are correct Blanco on all counts here. It is a little pricey to do the full floater and hubs.

The problem with putting in the transfer case is you have to also pull the transmision completely apart and put in the 4x4 tailshaft and tail housing. You could get around this by just picking up a complete package; trans, t-case, shifters, tunnel cover, and cross member. There could be a problem with the transfer case getting lube, but most of the later t-cases use a flimsy oil pump driven by the output shaft to lube the case.

When its all said and done, after about the second trip, the guy will be wondering why he just didn't buy a trailer! Flat towing is not a picnic, I can't even imagine doing it at freeway speeds with a full size truck in tow.

[Blanco]

It is a little pricey to do the full floater and hubs.


Actually I was gonna recommend he get a ford 10.25 or something cheap like that, already a full floater..
It should bolt right in, & being he has the rear flares it would probably fit nicely.

Flat towing is not a picnic, I can't even imagine doing it at freeway speeds with a full size truck in tow.

He'd be flat towing it with his Big Class A (Diesel pusher) Motorhome.
So I dont think he'd even feel it back there. http://www.thewebwheeler.com/forums/images/smilies/shrug.gif

[kkspeedracer]

i'm with moss....trailer tires and bearings are alot cheaper than those BFG's. by the time you add in a good tow bar set-up it might be a wash and you have a trailer for when you break it.