CopyKat's 4X4 BroncoIV build. [Archive]

CopyKat

05-28-2008, 07:38 AM

Some have followed my build on other sites but I thought I'd post some highlights here.

Specs.
4.0L engine
M5OD trans
Manual 1354 t-case.
D35/D44 hybrid plated and trussed front axle. Locker and 3.73's for now
Explorer 8.8 with disc brakes and 3.73 trac lock<---it's Toasted.
1990 interior
Bed lined floor
Custom front and rear bumpers
Custom 4.5" lift
33" Kumho KL-71 muds on Aluminum rims.
Roof rack
Custom one off grill with round lights. (Ya I like to be different)

Day I got it.
http://i128.photobucket.com/albums/p198/Villanmotorsports/BIV%20Bronco/posershots/biv2.jpg

Stripped it apart to fix rusty floor. Upgraded interior with 1990 interior and electrical.
http://i128.photobucket.com/albums/p198/Villanmotorsports/BIV%20Bronco/Body%20patches/body57.jpg
http://i128.photobucket.com/albums/p198/Villanmotorsports/BIV%20Bronco/dash%20int%20swap/int6.jpg

Starting to go back together, with newer straight frame.
http://i128.photobucket.com/albums/p198/Villanmotorsports/BIV%20Bronco/posershots/biv6.jpg

Axle upgrades
http://i128.photobucket.com/albums/p198/Villanmotorsports/BIV%20Bronco/posershots/biv11.jpg
http://i128.photobucket.com/albums/p198/Villanmotorsports/BIV%20Bronco/posershots/biv21.jpg

Getting there
http://i128.photobucket.com/albums/p198/Villanmotorsports/BIV%20Bronco/posershots/biv32.jpg
http://i128.photobucket.com/albums/p198/Villanmotorsports/BIV%20Bronco/posershots/biv43.jpg
http://i128.photobucket.com/albums/p198/Villanmotorsports/BIV%20Bronco/posershots/biv49.jpg

Playing around
http://i128.photobucket.com/albums/p198/Villanmotorsports/BIV%20Bronco/posershots/biv58.jpg
http://i128.photobucket.com/albums/p198/Villanmotorsports/BIV%20Bronco/posershots/biv57.jpg

Primered
http://i128.photobucket.com/albums/p198/Villanmotorsports/BIV%20Bronco/posershots/biv65.jpg

Bumper#3
http://i128.photobucket.com/albums/p198/Villanmotorsports/BIV%20Bronco/posershots/biv82.jpg

Droop
http://i128.photobucket.com/albums/p198/Villanmotorsports/BIV%20Bronco/posershots/biv86.jpg

New tires and rims
http://i128.photobucket.com/albums/p198/Villanmotorsports/BIV%20Bronco/posershots/Messingaround001.jpg

CopyKat

05-28-2008, 07:54 AM

Here is my front beam build. I should have done things differntly like a lower ball joint relocation. (Likely happen with the D44 TTB swap).;)

http://i128.photobucket.com/albums/p198/Villanmotorsports/BIV%20Bronco/front%20susp/SuperD35/SuperD35001.jpg
http://i128.photobucket.com/albums/p198/Villanmotorsports/BIV%20Bronco/front%20susp/SuperD35/SuperD35006.jpg

Blasted and painted.
http://i128.photobucket.com/albums/p198/Villanmotorsports/BIV%20Bronco/front%20susp/SuperD35/SuperD35011.jpg

Beams modified and D44 knuckles installed.
http://i128.photobucket.com/albums/p198/Villanmotorsports/BIV%20Bronco/front%20susp/SuperD35/SuperD35016.jpg

Assembling axle on truck.
http://i128.photobucket.com/albums/p198/Villanmotorsports/BIV%20Bronco/front%20susp/SuperD35/SuperD35022.jpg
http://i128.photobucket.com/albums/p198/Villanmotorsports/BIV%20Bronco/front%20susp/SuperD35/SuperD35027.jpg

I know Gay shock boots. too poor for coilovers and bypasses.
http://i128.photobucket.com/albums/p198/Villanmotorsports/BIV%20Bronco/front%20susp/SuperD35/SuperD35032.jpg

http://i128.photobucket.com/albums/p198/Villanmotorsports/BIV%20Bronco/front%20susp/SuperD35/SuperD35036.jpg

Shock boots removed and droop tested to make sure everything clears.
http://i128.photobucket.com/albums/p198/Villanmotorsports/BIV%20Bronco/posershots/Newpose006.jpg

rear mounted front shocks removed. Area to be reserved for bumps and limit straps.
http://i128.photobucket.com/albums/p198/Villanmotorsports/BIV%20Bronco/posershots/broncoiv002.jpg

CopyKat

05-28-2008, 07:59 AM

Latest addition is the Fourth front bumper idea and it's going to be the last cuz I linke it so much better than all the others.

New bumper designed.
http://i128.photobucket.com/albums/p198/Villanmotorsports/BIV%20Bronco/Exterior%20mods/bump7.jpg

Old bumper off
http://i128.photobucket.com/albums/p198/Villanmotorsports/BIV%20Bronco/Exterior%20mods/newbumper002.jpg

New bumper 90% welded.
http://i128.photobucket.com/albums/p198/Villanmotorsports/BIV%20Bronco/Exterior%20mods/bumpermockup006.jpg

Finish welded and painted.
http://i128.photobucket.com/albums/p198/Villanmotorsports/BIV%20Bronco/Exterior%20mods/bumpermockup008.jpg

Skid plated mounted.
http://i128.photobucket.com/albums/p198/Villanmotorsports/BIV%20Bronco/Exterior%20mods/bumperdone003.jpg
http://i128.photobucket.com/albums/p198/Villanmotorsports/BIV%20Bronco/Exterior%20mods/bumperdone004.jpg

More to come, as the rear suspension will get a rework. I've still got a few things to finish on the front suspension.

Ckrue689

05-28-2008, 11:56 AM

CopyKat

05-28-2008, 12:04 PM

I was following this thread on another site, how did you make the housing for the round headlights? looks sweet, and Im tired of the '90 conversion I did on mine. I want to send it back to '86 but Ive never really been too fond of the Rectangular lights...

I made fiberglass bezels. I still have the mold I used Just in case I should have to replace the grill.

http://www.broncoii-ranger.com/forum/viewtopic.php?t=2291

Ckrue689

05-28-2008, 01:11 PM

the picture in your avatar thing is way different than the ones in the thread, the rear wheel wells are round, do you have glass fenders on there already?

and wth are your rad. arms made out of?

CopyKat

05-28-2008, 01:16 PM

the picture in your avatar thing is way different than the ones in the thread, the rear wheel wells are round, do you have glass fenders on there already?

and wth are your rad. arms made out of?

The picture in My avatar is of a B2 that SoloMotorSports built and it's been re-colored in photoshop to look like mine.

That's the look I'm after for mine. There I Just changed it to a real one of my truck.

Ckrue689

05-28-2008, 01:21 PM

hahahaha, I thought it looked a little familiar... but on your BII are your radius arms just square stock? what size heims?

CopyKat

05-28-2008, 01:33 PM

Ever since i saw that truck I've fallen in Love with it. (Don't tell mine wife that!)

The rad arms are 2 x 3 x 3/16wall tube. The part that bolts to the beam is fully boxed and internally braced. IIRC they were 36Lb/ea. No Heim, stock RBV rad arm bushings. I could prolly go with a 70's Bronco bushing as they may fit the bracket better.

http://i128.photobucket.com/albums/p198/Villanmotorsports/BIV%20Bronco/MoreBIV327.jpg

Ckrue689

05-28-2008, 01:59 PM

The rad arms are 2 x 3 x 3/16wall tube. The part that bolts to the beam is fully boxed and internally braced. IIRC they were 36Lb/ea. No Heim, stock RBV rad arm bushings. I could prolly go with a 70's Bronco bushing as they may fit the bracket better.

That looks bulletproof. but I would think a 1 1/4" heim would be a bit smoother and be less maintenance. Lee Zimmerman did something like that and he used the stock front half of the Rad. arm and used 2 inch Chromemoly like .075 wall or something. he was pulling almost 21" of travel...

CopyKat

05-28-2008, 02:26 PM

That looks bulletproof. but I would think a 1 1/4" heim would be a bit smoother and be less maintenance. Lee Zimmerman did something like that and he used the stock front half of the Rad. arm and used 2 inch Chromemoly like .075 wall or something. he was pulling almost 21" of travel...

The bushing only moves about 10° each way @ over 16" travel. My CAD file tells me about 12° @ 20" travel. That bushing can more than handle that. I've been running those same bushings on 2 different trucks and they are nearly 7 years old. And they were only $25 for both arms.

The problem I have with more travel would be coils and the fact that the pivot bushing twists so much the beams will actually contact the pivot brackets.

My front shock is a 14" travel shock and I use nearly all of it. My coil will cycle 12" when really pushed.

BajaBronco13

05-28-2008, 05:02 PM

Bronco IIs are really making a showing on C3R, very cool rigs.

Chris

Ckrue689

05-28-2008, 05:11 PM

The bushing only moves about 10° each way @ over 16" travel. My CAD file tells me about 12° @ 20" travel. That bushing can more than handle that. I've been running those same bushings on 2 different trucks and they are nearly 7 years old. And they were only $25 for both arms.

The problem I have with more travel would be coils and the fact that the pivot bushing twists so much the beams will actually contact the pivot brackets.

My front shock is a 14" travel shock and I use nearly all of it. My coil will cycle 12" when really pushed.

no, I understand. But it seems that bushings would only serve to limit travel, and put more stress on the beams by moving back and forth. with a heim joint it would be one less thing to worry about breaking or wearing out.

thats just my opinion from having used bushings before. but then again I had a different setup than yours.

straightaxle

06-02-2008, 08:08 AM

The bushings in the radius arms work better than you would think, as long as you have good, flat washers backing them up. They will actually outlast the heims. Heims wear and will get noisy when they do wear. We used urethane bushings for many years on the race truck, and they would split after a few races in the bracket area. The rubber stock type were rumored to last longer than urethane, but we did not get a chance to test this.

How much work was it to put the 4.0 in? I don't know my trans numbers that well, is that out of the Explorer? Did you just use the wiring that came with the 4.0? If you have a link to all the info, throw that in. My second 2.9 still runs fine, but can't really drive it anymore because now the heads are cracked on this one as well.

3amigo

06-02-2008, 08:16 AM

Does you rig really toe-in as much as the picture makes it look like it does at full droop?

CopyKat

06-02-2008, 08:17 AM

How much work was it to put the 4.0 in? I don't know my trans numbers that well, is that out of the Explorer? Did you just use the wiring that came with the 4.0? If you have a link to all the info, throw that in. My second 2.9 still runs fine, but can't really drive it anymore because now the heads are cracked on this one as well.

The durometer of the poly bushings is higher than the rubber ones. Ya they may last longer on a street driven truck but offroad the rubber is the ticket.

The 4.0L wasn't bad to put in. I did however upgrade my electrical to 1990 B2 harnesses. I just splice into the 2.9L Distribution harness. I helped a buddy out not long ago with a 4.0L swap into a 87 ranger and it wasn't too bad. We put the distruibution harness from the 93 Explorer into it, so there were more wires than normal to splice in.

The M5OD is the Mazda 5 speed manual that was put behind the 90-->current RBV's

Once you go from a 2.9L to a 4.0L you'll feel the difference right away. It'll feel like a different animal.

Now I just need to get my 4.10:1 gears installed.

CopyKat

06-02-2008, 08:19 AM

Does you rig really toe-in as much as the picture makes it look like it does at full droop?

With the basic Superrunner linkage Yes!:(:(

I've got the stock linkages on now with a drop arm and I can still feel the bumpsteer pretty bad. I've got a modified center link from the superunner linkage that drops the center mount for the TRE 2" over the basic linkage. Once I get it back from the machine shop, I'll be re-installing it.

http://i128.photobucket.com/albums/p198/Villanmotorsports/BIV%20Bronco/posershots/Newpose005.jpg

I'll get some new pictures tonight with the stock linkage and I can compare them better.

Ckrue689

06-02-2008, 01:21 PM

We used urethane bushings for many years on the race truck, and they would split after a few races in the bracket area. The rubber stock type were rumored to last longer than urethane, but we did not get a chance to test this.

I used only urethane and I always had problems with them cracking and breaking apart in racing conditions. it destroyed the cross member on one occasion. rubber did great and they turned out to be a smoother ride as well, but heims are bar none the best Ive used, they feel incredible especially on the steering linkage, very responsive compared to ball joints. with the heims though I try to replace them when the ball starts to spin freely, even at that point they are still good spares.

How much work was it to put the 4.0 in? I don't know my trans numbers that well, is that out of the Explorer? Did you just use the wiring that came with the 4.0? If you have a link to all the info, throw that in. My second 2.9 still runs fine, but can't really drive it anymore because now the heads are cracked on this one as well.

www.therangerstation.com has a good technical section on the 2.9 issues as well as a 4.0 swap.

CopyKat

06-02-2008, 05:47 PM

Messing around a bit with the floor jack.

http://i128.photobucket.com/albums/p198/Villanmotorsports/BIV%20Bronco/posershots/poserB2002.jpg
http://i128.photobucket.com/albums/p198/Villanmotorsports/BIV%20Bronco/posershots/poserB2001.jpg
http://i128.photobucket.com/albums/p198/Villanmotorsports/BIV%20Bronco/posershots/poserB2003.jpg

pigracing

06-26-2008, 09:16 PM

I think I posted this on another site but in case I didn't and for the record - I dig that bumper and those beams.

CopyKat

06-27-2008, 05:45 AM

Thanks

Sadly the truck does need alot of TLC. I've got a nasty wander/dive issue I have to deal with. I think it may have something to do with the 4' drop brackets and the 3.5" lift I'm running:o. I do have a set of STX brackets I plan to use.

The center pin on my leaf packs have come loose and my leaves are spinning on me. I'll be fixing that issue as soon as I get all the parts for the shackle flip. Blocks will be available next week and hope the shackles will too.

PS gear needs to be changed, could be one of the wander causes.

I've got a mint set of doors, just need the manual interior panels, to delete the power. Should be able to get a coat of paint on the door jams and interior of doors before they go back on. I'll do the hatch and the hood at the same time.

I've got a spare set of fenders I plan to cut to make my fender extensions Just need to find the time and get some blades for my bodysaw.

Other things on the list of parts comming is 4.10 Gears. Ranger 8.8 axle. I know it's a step down from the Explorer axle I have now but with the 4.10's and a locker that will be going in it it'll be just as good. I've got disc brake caliper brackets already so I won't loose that. This axle will give be a better width as it is right now with the adapters I'm 3" wider out back than up front. The ranger axle will correct this.

Ohh sooooooo mannnnyy things to do.

straightaxle

06-27-2008, 08:10 AM

With the basic Superrunner linkage Yes!:(:(

I've got the stock linkages on now with a drop arm and I can still feel the bumpsteer pretty bad. I've got a modified center link from the superunner linkage that drops the center mount for the TRE 2" over the basic linkage. Once I get it back from the machine shop, I'll be re-installing it.

http://i128.photobucket.com/albums/p198/Villanmotorsports/BIV%20Bronco/posershots/Newpose005.jpg

I'll get some new pictures tonight with the stock linkage and I can compare them better.

Looking at this picture with this steering linkage, I bet it is a real handful to drive. The drop arm looks like it is close to correct, but the drivers side tie rod should connect to the passenger side tie rod out near the drivers side beam frame pivot. I bet if you watched it going through the bumps while holding the steering wheel straight, the drivers side wheel is turning left when the suspension compresses, and turns right when it droops. The lift kit did not come with some kind of steering linkage? This setup is a canidate for a swingset linkage. The steering linkage pivot points and the suspension pivot points have to line up and remain parallel, or they are both going to go in very different directions as the suspension moves. It's a tough (and usually expensive) problem to solve because the pivot points end up needing to be in the same space occupied by something else.

I have a 66 Mustang that came with a 6 cylinder. It had a cracked cylinder when we got it, and I had a running v-8 sitting in the garage, so the obvious thing to do was marry the two. Unfortunately the v-8 and I-6 cars were not created equally. Ford used much smaller components on the I-6 cars. The tie rod ends looked like something you would use for a throttle linkage. Had to get rid of the 4 lug stuff and put 5 lug stuff in because it would not stop with the I-6 brakes. Long story short, with the combined V-8 steering and I-6 suspension, the car has some serious bump toe problems, and the tires will literally squeal if you go over a big hump on the highway and the suspension droops out. You do what you have to when you're broke and need a daily driver!

CopyKat

06-27-2008, 08:30 AM

That is an older picture with a superrunner K linkage. I've had it modified so that it dropped the mount on the center link down 2". The linkage sits nearly flat now at ride height.

Here is a much older picture of the K linkage.
http://i128.photobucket.com/albums/p198/Villanmotorsports/BIV%20Bronco/MoreBIV328.jpg

I'll have to get some pictures of it next week. Right now I don't have any bump steer issues that I can feel. but the wander is what bugs me the most.

It feels like the steering is binding up and then lets go all of a sudden, and the steering wheel input is very very minimal. The truck then dives and turns.

It almost feels. like the steering is compressing the suspension on one side and the dive is causing the wheels to turn into the lean.

It was mentioned to me that the steering gear could be bad. I've got a spare one and I also have a parts truck comming my way that has a known good gear.

The lean and the rear leaf issue are the major ones I need to correct right now, as it's a handfull to keep straight sometimes.

Next on the list is tire coverage. New provincial laws comming out July 1st are pretty strict and the Cop's and DOT will be out full force issueing fix-it tickets.:(

straightaxle

06-27-2008, 10:14 AM

Couldn't see the detail in that other picture, this one makes it pretty clear. That is a like a swing set, but the pivot points are not where they should be. The tie rods will be crossed when they are. Would be curious to see the setup you are using now.

CopyKat

06-27-2008, 10:30 AM

It's basically the same just the block that the TRE's meet at is new and the TRE holes are 2" lower on the center link. It's far from optimum but it is a better solution than uber drop pitman arms.

If I go with the STX brackets I'll likely go back to the stock linkage if this setup doesn't work out.

Ckrue689

06-27-2008, 12:40 PM

CopyKat

06-27-2008, 12:51 PM

I didn't do anything to the axle shafts. I changed the pivot locations slightly and there was enough spline in the center slip to take up the change.

The new beams I built I did nothing to widen them. I just added the D44 knuckles to them.

Blanco

06-27-2008, 02:03 PM

I dont want to fork over a ton of cash to have camburg do it,

Try giving Fantelli MotorSports a Call. 1-760-787-9219
Tell Rodd, Cam sent you. :cool:

He's in Ramona, not too far from you.

Yikes

06-27-2008, 03:23 PM

how did you extend the axles in the beams? Im just sbout ready to make the first cut to extend the beams but I dont want to fork over a ton of cash to have camburg do it, did you just sleeve them and have them balanced??

Camburg won't do it anymore, but Solo does. Bobby charges $100-150. They lengthened one of mine and did a nice job.

Ckrue689

06-29-2008, 08:14 PM

Camburg won't do it anymore, but Solo does. Bobby charges $100-150. They lengthened one of mine and did a nice job.

no, camburg still does it but under the table... Now does solo only sleeve the axles? and do they balance them?

Yikes

06-29-2008, 09:03 PM

no, camburg still does it but under the table... Now does solo only sleeve the axles? and do they balance them?

Wow! I feel like a nobody. They told me no. Anyway, here's a picture of what Solo did for me. They weld in a slug with three passes at each joint, then sleeve over the top. They send them to Currie to be straightened and balanced.

http://www.supermotors.net/getfile/622963/fullsize/img_0435.jpg

Ckrue689

06-29-2008, 09:17 PM

Damn, and only for 150 bucks?

Ckrue689

06-29-2008, 09:46 PM

I dont mean to go off topic, but does anyone have some 6 or more inch flres for a 83-88 ranger or B2 that they would want to trade for an entire 1990 front end? Mine is a 6 inch flare as well, I just want to downgrade. let me know...

pigracing

06-29-2008, 10:30 PM

Wow! I feel like a nobody. They told me no. Anyway, here's a picture of what Solo did for me. They weld in a slug with three passes at each joint, then sleeve over the top. They send them to Currie to be straightened and balanced.

http://www.supermotors.net/getfile/622963/fullsize/img_0435.jpg

That sounds pretty legit. How much was that? $150? For $150 I wouldn't mind going a couple inches over stock.

Ckrue689

06-30-2008, 12:10 AM

That sounds pretty legit. How much was that? $150? For $150 I wouldn't mind going a couple inches over stock.

seriously, thats the best deal Ive heard all year...

CopyKat

07-05-2008, 10:40 PM

That is actually not a bad deal.

So I got to installing the modified Superlift Superrunner linkage again. It's better now but the wander is still there a bit. Steering gear will be changed out soon.
Stock linkage
http://i128.photobucket.com/albums/p198/Villanmotorsports/BIV%20Bronco/posershots/poserB2001.jpg
Modified superrunner.
http://i128.photobucket.com/albums/p198/Villanmotorsports/BIV%20Bronco/posershots/P1000077.jpg
http://i128.photobucket.com/albums/p198/Villanmotorsports/BIV%20Bronco/posershots/P1000076.jpg

Ckrue689

07-05-2008, 11:55 PM

Hey copykat, hows progress on your back fenders? or is their anyother progress besides the steering? honestly dude, you should quit trying to mess with the superlift setup and run a nice J arm swing set setup. it works best primarily on equal length, but Ive noticed very little bumpsteer on a ranger we ran it on, that had factory beams... just a thought.

On a side note:
my headlights on my '90 conversion fell off while I was driving down the street. it only broke the light bulbs thanks to my front bumper catching the whole thing. I threw the original grill on, managed to squeeze some 8" pro comp 130 watt lights in place of the old rectangles, and made some aluminum pieces to fill the gaps around the lights in the square hole, looks pretty trick, with ALL the lights on now it looks like a freakin UFO...I have Four lights on the roof, and four on the bumper plus two as headlights, it looks wild. ive already recieved 2 tickets for blinding the slower drivers on the freeway.

CopyKat

07-06-2008, 07:19 AM

That's the last bit I plan to mess with the superrunner kit. Right now there isn't any bumpsteer that I can feel. I just have that wander, almost like there is no return to center feel. I've got a set of STX 1.5" lift brackets I'm going to try. Once the rear shackles are flipped I'll see how much lift I loose out back. Right now I'm about 2" higher out back then up front.
The STX brackets will give me better geometry, but I don't know if it will still align as I'd like to keep running 3" lift. Don't know if the D44 adjuster cams will take in that. as one is about 3° pos and the other side about 2.5° negative. That could be due to the 4" drop brackets and the 3" lift height I'm running.

As for fenders I've got some holidays comming at the end of the month. I'll be working on them then. Along with the ranger 8.8, 4.10's and rear locker. The explorer 8.8 with the spacer/adapters makes the rear about 2" wider per side and it is noticeable.

I've been working on a crossover type linkage, but it gets pretty complex around the beams and I'd like to keep it with regular TRE's

They cycle pretty evenly from side to side.
http://i128.photobucket.com/albums/p198/Villanmotorsports/BIV%20Bronco/posershots/P1000080.jpg
http://i128.photobucket.com/albums/p198/Villanmotorsports/BIV%20Bronco/posershots/P1000084.jpg

Ckrue689

07-06-2008, 10:00 AM

As for fenders I've got some holidays comming at the end of the month. I'll be working on them then. Along with the ranger 8.8, 4.10's and rear locker. The explorer 8.8 with the spacer/adapters makes the rear about 2" wider per side and it is noticeable.

so your swapping a ranger rear end in? the axles are only a 27 spline, and they are thinner than the exploder axles. you should try to get the 8.8 or even a 9 inch out of an older F150. the 9 inch housings are always floatin around in those old econo vans.

Blanco

07-06-2008, 11:27 AM

the 9 inch housings are always floatin around in those old econo vans.

From what I understand the Vans have the widest 9" axles out there.
So just keep that in mind before you go with a van rear end.

CopyKat

07-06-2008, 12:08 PM

Not going to go full width just yet. The Ranger 8.8 is a 28 spline but it is narrower than the Explorer axle. my adapters on the back is whats it goofy. An F150 is wider yet. Explorer axle is 59" WMS-WMS. 91 ranger is about 56" My adapters are 1.5". My front axle is about 60". An F150 runs about 65" and the E150 is about 68".

I've got the D44 beams that I can go full width or partial full width. but I'm not at that point yet. I'd like to have the rear tires tucked in a bit more so that the flare I make isn't going to have to be rediculous huge and look out of place.

I don't mind if the front is wider a few inches over the rear. I've got a Parts B2 comming that has a lincoln 8.8 out back that is about a 61-62" width but 5 on 4.5 pattern. It's got a locker and 4.10's. I've got the opportunity to trade a buddy of mine mu lift brackets for his 91 ranger 8.8, that I'll build up with disc brakes, locker and 4.10's. The same B2 I'll be getting has D35 - 4.10's in the front too. I doubt I'll swap my D35 locker over as I think it's toast. It's racheting and slipping when under load.

I've got so many parts and things on the go I just need to get some of them knocked off. Most of it is hinging on getting this parts B2.

CopyKat

07-10-2008, 08:24 AM

Picked up the parts truck the other day.

http://i128.photobucket.com/albums/p198/Villanmotorsports/BIII%20Bronco/P1000090.jpg
http://i128.photobucket.com/albums/p198/Villanmotorsports/BIII%20Bronco/P1000091.jpg

NRT_Chris

07-10-2008, 10:46 AM

Wow! I feel like a nobody. They told me no. Anyway, here's a picture of what Solo did for me. They weld in a slug with three passes at each joint, then sleeve over the top. They send them to Currie to be straightened and balanced.

http://www.supermotors.net/getfile/622963/fullsize/img_0435.jpg

Currie will Not straighten or balance a axle shaft like this. We dont balance axle shafts at all. We can take that shaft in as a example of what you want and make a new shaft for you.

Ckrue689

07-10-2008, 10:47 AM

how much did you pick that up for?

Ckrue689

07-10-2008, 10:50 AM

Currie will Not straighten or balance a axle shaft like this. We dont balance axle shafts at all. We can take that shaft in as a example of what you want and make a new shaft for you.

do you work for currie or something?

NRT_Chris

07-10-2008, 10:59 AM

do you work for currie or something?

yup

CopyKat

07-10-2008, 11:07 AM

It's a Buddy of mine. I'm stripping it out for him. He tried selling it whole but there would be no way he'd get what he want's. The body is shot and the frame is aparently bent.

The parts I plan to snag from it are little bits and pieces. The big ones are the D35 4.10 pig and the 4.10 8.8 gears and locker. The side bars will make the move over to my truck. Another buddy of ours wanted the 4" lift. Someones spoken for the C4 and Manual 1354. He's going to try to sell the 302. Someone wants the flares. Not much will be left of the truck. The grill, doors, and hood are already gone. Buddies Neighbour got those.

I was thinking about going C4 in my truck but then last night I was reminded why I don't want an auto. I tried this little hill out back and lost drive and reverse. I had to get my truck out to pull it down. It stopped about the same spot. I had left some big ruts trying to climb the hill in my bronco before this picture was taken. Steeper than it looks.

http://i128.photobucket.com/albums/p198/Villanmotorsports/BIV%20Bronco/posershots/P1000081.jpg

I've pulled the front fenders off the parts truck and put my white ones on that I plan to use to make my flared fenders with. I'll use the truck as a base to make my fiberglass fender extensions. ;)

CopyKat

07-10-2008, 11:12 AM

yup

Well then now how much would it be to make a new long shaft for the passenger side TTB??

One about 2.25" shorter than a stock D44 one??

:confused:

NRT_Chris

07-10-2008, 11:21 AM

Well then now how much would it be to make a new long shaft for the passenger side TTB??

One about 2.25" shorter than a stock D44 one??

:confused:

129.95 for a dana shaft and 179.95 for chromo

CopyKat

07-10-2008, 11:25 AM

Shipped??:D

Sorry I'm a cheap bastard. But $130 sounds reasonable, if someone was going to be doing a D44 TTB converson on an RBV using the stock pivots.:rolleyes:

NRT_Chris

07-10-2008, 11:35 AM

Shipped? No.... shipping to Canada get really expensive. It maybe a little more expensive at first but If you end up breaking shafts it wont seem that bad:)

Ckrue689

07-10-2008, 06:04 PM

go auto if you plan on racing. otherwise stick with a stick.

CopyKat

07-10-2008, 06:42 PM

Alot of guys say an auto is the tits offroad. Even the guys I wheel with.:confused:

On a lighter side I started to do my front fenders ;)

http://i128.photobucket.com/albums/p198/Villanmotorsports/BIV%20Bronco/Fenders/P1000097.jpg
http://i128.photobucket.com/albums/p198/Villanmotorsports/BIV%20Bronco/Fenders/P1000096.jpg

Got one relatively filled in, I've got to glue it together and shave it down. I'll be using the expanding foam to glue it together.

http://i128.photobucket.com/albums/p198/Villanmotorsports/BIV%20Bronco/Fenders/P1000099.jpg
http://i128.photobucket.com/albums/p198/Villanmotorsports/BIV%20Bronco/Fenders/P1000094.jpg
http://i128.photobucket.com/albums/p198/Villanmotorsports/BIV%20Bronco/Fenders/P1000095.jpg
http://i128.photobucket.com/albums/p198/Villanmotorsports/BIV%20Bronco/Fenders/P1000093.jpg
http://i128.photobucket.com/albums/p198/Villanmotorsports/BIV%20Bronco/Fenders/P1000100.jpg
http://i128.photobucket.com/albums/p198/Villanmotorsports/BIV%20Bronco/Fenders/P1000101.jpg

:eek:These are about 5" rise and 8" flare

Blanco

07-10-2008, 07:16 PM

Kinda looks like Hannamens stylings. http://www.thewebwheeler.com/forums/images/smilies/humm_smilie.gif

CopyKat

07-10-2008, 08:18 PM

Got lots of shaving to do.:(

Ckrue689

07-11-2008, 10:37 AM

CopyKat

07-11-2008, 10:50 AM

if thats just styrofoam, it will disintegrate if it comes in contact with the resin. go to lowes or home depot ( if you have those in canada) and pick up a couple cans of expanding foam, its cheap, its reliable and it wont melt.

Remember the aluminum Foil trick??;)

Ya I've got to go get a couple of cans to use as filler and adhesive. Then I can get rid of the duct tape and start shaving. I want to get the passenger side roughed out so that when I do the final shape I can get them close to even, or look remotely the same. Since the measurements are still fresh in my mind.

Ckrue689

07-12-2008, 06:57 PM

Remember the aluminum Foil trick??;)

gotcha.... still seems like alot of extra work trying to keep the foam from disintegrating when you could just use the expanding foam. Unless you are planning on making more than one fender per side?

Ckrue689

07-12-2008, 11:14 PM

thats alot like hanneman glass.
you should give them a little rise, like 1 or 2 inches, so the hood is lower than the top of the fenders, you have alot of space to play with, 8 inches is a huge flare...

Kinda looks like Hannamens stylings. http://www.thewebwheeler.com/forums/images/smilies/humm_smilie.gif

CopyKat

07-14-2008, 05:40 AM

Getting the foam today and should have the passenger side roughed out. May even cut the passenger rear quarter off.

CopyKat

07-14-2008, 10:10 PM

So I got the fronts bulked up and started to trim them to shape. I cut too much on the Drivers side and need to add to build it back up. I'll use the spray foam for that. So here they are taking shape.

http://i128.photobucket.com/albums/p198/Villanmotorsports/BIV%20Bronco/Fenders/P1000106.jpg
http://i128.photobucket.com/albums/p198/Villanmotorsports/BIV%20Bronco/Fenders/P1000109.jpg
http://i128.photobucket.com/albums/p198/Villanmotorsports/BIV%20Bronco/Fenders/P1000112.jpg

Doh
http://i128.photobucket.com/albums/p198/Villanmotorsports/BIV%20Bronco/Fenders/P1000111.jpg

The Drivers rear is cut out, waiting for fill.
http://i128.photobucket.com/albums/p198/Villanmotorsports/BIV%20Bronco/Fenders/P1000110.jpg

CopyKat

07-15-2008, 06:58 PM

Should I keep the body line going???

http://i128.photobucket.com/albums/p198/Villanmotorsports/BIV%20Bronco/Fenders/P1000114.jpg
http://i128.photobucket.com/albums/p198/Villanmotorsports/BIV%20Bronco/Fenders/P1000115.jpg
http://i128.photobucket.com/albums/p198/Villanmotorsports/BIV%20Bronco/Fenders/P1000116.jpg

Rear progress
http://i128.photobucket.com/albums/p198/Villanmotorsports/BIV%20Bronco/Fenders/P1000117.jpg
http://i128.photobucket.com/albums/p198/Villanmotorsports/BIV%20Bronco/Fenders/P1000113.jpg

tnt

07-15-2008, 08:49 PM

If I can offer any help let me know,20+ years experiance with expanded poly styrene (EPS) epoxy and polyester resin urathan foam and fiberglass.TIM http://www.tntsurf.com/

CopyKat

07-16-2008, 05:56 AM

Thanks I've gotten tons of advise. Would be nice to have a material's sponsor for a change!!:rolleyes:

steveG

07-16-2008, 06:17 PM

Should I keep the body line going???

Definitely. I think it would look weird without it.

CopyKat

07-16-2008, 09:19 PM

Redone front
http://i128.photobucket.com/albums/p198/Villanmotorsports/BIV%20Bronco/Fenders/P1000121.jpg
http://i128.photobucket.com/albums/p198/Villanmotorsports/BIV%20Bronco/Fenders/P1000122.jpg
http://i128.photobucket.com/albums/p198/Villanmotorsports/BIV%20Bronco/Fenders/P1000127.jpg

Shaped rear
http://i128.photobucket.com/albums/p198/Villanmotorsports/BIV%20Bronco/Fenders/P1000126.jpg
http://i128.photobucket.com/albums/p198/Villanmotorsports/BIV%20Bronco/Fenders/P1000125.jpg
http://i128.photobucket.com/albums/p198/Villanmotorsports/BIV%20Bronco/Fenders/P1000124.jpg

Drivers side nearly done.
http://i128.photobucket.com/albums/p198/Villanmotorsports/BIV%20Bronco/Fenders/P1000128.jpg

tnt

07-16-2008, 09:39 PM

Are those going to be your fenders or the plugs for your molds?

CopyKat

07-16-2008, 09:56 PM

Are those going to be your fenders or the plugs for your molds?

I'll be glassing over the foam to make the fender parts.

tnt

07-16-2008, 10:14 PM

Will you be using epoxy resin or polyester resin? the reason I ask it looks like you have two kinds of foam there.

CopyKat

07-16-2008, 10:18 PM

I'll be covering the foam before glassing. I'll be using low shrink polyester resin.

tnt

07-16-2008, 10:22 PM

are the blocks of white foam EPS ( cooler foam)

tnt

07-16-2008, 10:37 PM

just went further back in the thread it is eps, what will your shield coat be? im sure your aware polyester resin will melt the expandid poly styrene foam.

CopyKat

07-17-2008, 04:14 AM

just went further back in the thread it is eps, what will your shield coat be? im sure your aware polyester resin will melt the expandid poly styrene foam.

I'm going to try aluminum foil on a test piece to see how it holds up. I've got some spray adhiesive I can use to tack the fender up and apply the foil. This should help will covering any irregularities. It doesn't have to be 100% since I'll be finishing the back side of the glass (Outside surface). It'll also act like a mold release.

tnt

07-17-2008, 10:06 AM

CopyKat

07-17-2008, 10:26 AM

spray glue has solvent in it that will also melt the eps foam.If you can get two part epoxy resin it is compatable with the eps foam.after your done shaping spread light weight spackle on the fenders to fill the voids let dry then final sand smooth, then apply the epoxy and fiberglass one layer let it set over night,then spread bondo in thin coats and sand as many times as it takes to make it tits, then wet sand down to 800grit.this is the plug and it has to be perfect,next apply your parting material (mold release)wax or pba or partall, now you can use the polyester resin to make the mold five layers of glass and resin with reinforcements now you have a mold to make fenders.I have done this for years its cheaper just to buy the fenders,but its fun to make them yourself.
.

Noter quite the route I'm taking.

I've trued the 3M spray glue and it doesn't eat away at the polystyrene. Couple of teh rear panels are glued on this way.

I'll be putting the foil over the foam to protect from the heat of the resin. I will be laying 3 layers of glass on the fenders. Once done I'll be sanding and finishing the rough side of the fenders. I don't plan to make another mold/plug setup. This is the plug and this is the mold.

tnt

07-17-2008, 11:37 AM

that works two, I have done it that way maney times on one off projects,try the bondo it will help get a smooth finish

CopyKat

07-17-2008, 11:49 AM

that works two, I have done it that way maney times on one off projects,try the bondo it will help get a smooth finish

That's the plan. I've been looking around for prices and here is what I have come up with. a guy at work helped me figure out the resin amounts.

We figure it will be about 120 cubic feet of resin per fender. based on a 70% cloth amount to 30% resin. This works out to about .52 gal of resin. 1 gal resin is $45. so I'd need atleast 2.

The 1.5 oz chop strand mat is 50" wide and they sell by the meter (50") and it's $7.50 per meter. so even for 3 layers of glass I would need atleast 12 panels 50x50 (Guestimate)

Catylist is $8 for an 8oz bottle.

So if you add it all up about $90 for resin and about $90 for mat, and thow in $20 for 16 OZ of catylist. I'm looking at about $200-$250 total for materials.

tnt

07-17-2008, 12:47 PM

have you ever worked with resin befor?

CopyKat

07-17-2008, 12:53 PM

Yes I have. I've done many many projects with glass. I may be near the lower limit on my resin calcs but I can always pick up a smaller can should I need more.

tnt

07-17-2008, 01:23 PM

1 gal two fenders that could work maybe I buy my resin in 55gal drums and waist alot,but three layers at 1.5 mat fiber is to thin, your body line will help to keep it ridged but it will be flaping in the wind down low.I use 1.5 for dash boards and door panels 4.5oz xthree on a fender min.....I send surfboards to tofino BC all the time but I cant send resin or I would hook you up.

CopyKat

07-17-2008, 01:28 PM

I was told that i could substitute the 2nd layer of glass for a 10 oz woven cloth and that will increase the strength of the fenders emensly.

All the lower edges and the wheel well openings will have a 3-6" flange on them. That will help the stiffness of the lower edges.

tnt

07-17-2008, 01:36 PM

that will work.

pigracing

07-17-2008, 07:27 PM

Wow. I kind of thought you were nuts at first but it's really coming along nicely. Great job for sure and I can't wait to see it done.

CopyKat

07-17-2008, 09:11 PM

Wow. I kind of thought you were nuts at first

I thought so too.:o

Today's update.

Pass rear is started.
http://i128.photobucket.com/albums/p198/Villanmotorsports/BIV%20Bronco/Fenders/P1000155.jpg

Drivers rear is almost finished. Just need to get the wheel well opening sorted out.
http://i128.photobucket.com/albums/p198/Villanmotorsports/BIV%20Bronco/Fenders/P1000153.jpg
http://i128.photobucket.com/albums/p198/Villanmotorsports/BIV%20Bronco/Fenders/P1000152.jpg
http://i128.photobucket.com/albums/p198/Villanmotorsports/BIV%20Bronco/Fenders/P1000150.jpg

Got the passenger front all cut and shaped. Looks really close to the drivers side.
http://i128.photobucket.com/albums/p198/Villanmotorsports/BIV%20Bronco/Fenders/P1000141.jpg
http://i128.photobucket.com/albums/p198/Villanmotorsports/BIV%20Bronco/Fenders/P1000142.jpg

http://i128.photobucket.com/albums/p198/Villanmotorsports/BIV%20Bronco/Fenders/P1000149.jpg
http://i128.photobucket.com/albums/p198/Villanmotorsports/BIV%20Bronco/Fenders/P1000148.jpg

http://i128.photobucket.com/albums/p198/Villanmotorsports/BIV%20Bronco/Fenders/P1000145.jpg
http://i128.photobucket.com/albums/p198/Villanmotorsports/BIV%20Bronco/Fenders/P1000147.jpg

CopyKat

07-20-2008, 09:47 AM

Today's update.

I got the passenger rear fender shaped. It needs bit of foam work to seal some holes, and it will nearly be done. I've got a few pieces to add to the wheel opening to smooth it out. I added some to the drivers side and it's not bad.

http://i128.photobucket.com/albums/p198/Villanmotorsports/BIV%20Bronco/Fenders/P1000163.jpg
http://i128.photobucket.com/albums/p198/Villanmotorsports/BIV%20Bronco/Fenders/P1000160.jpg

http://i128.photobucket.com/albums/p198/Villanmotorsports/BIV%20Bronco/Fenders/P1000161.jpg
http://i128.photobucket.com/albums/p198/Villanmotorsports/BIV%20Bronco/Fenders/P1000162.jpg

http://i128.photobucket.com/albums/p198/Villanmotorsports/BIV%20Bronco/Fenders/P1000165.jpg

http://i128.photobucket.com/albums/p198/Villanmotorsports/BIV%20Bronco/Fenders/P1000164.jpg
http://i128.photobucket.com/albums/p198/Villanmotorsports/BIV%20Bronco/Fenders/P1000166.jpg

CopyKat

07-21-2008, 07:49 PM

Blanco

07-21-2008, 09:50 PM

http://www.thewebwheeler.com/forums/images/smilies/16.gif

CopyKat

07-22-2008, 06:09 AM

Forget the popcorn Cam! Your gonna need Jerky cuz it's about to get real intersting.;)

Blanco

07-22-2008, 12:04 PM

Forget the popcorn Cam! Your gonna need Jerky cuz it's about to get real intersting.;)

http://www.thewebwheeler.com/forums/images/smilies/7_4_16.gif

CopyKat

07-22-2008, 09:06 PM

Only update for today is I got the passenger rear wheel well opening shaped and covered it in foil. So all the foil is on and it's time to start glassing. Picked up 2 gallons of resin and 20 meters of chop mat. Going it start glassing tomorrow. Need to make up a roller tomorrow at work, and grab a few brushes.

pigracing

07-22-2008, 09:58 PM

http://www.thewebwheeler.com/forums/images/smilies/7_4_16.gif

HaHa. That's pretty good. Getting better and better each day.

Ckrue689

07-23-2008, 01:33 AM

Hows my tin work?? http://i128.photobucket.com/albums/p198/Villanmotorsports/BIV%20Bronco/Fenders/P1000185.jpg http://i128.photobucket.com/albums/p198/Villanmotorsports/BIV%20Bronco/Fenders/P1000189.jpg http://i128.photobucket.com/albums/p198/Villanmotorsports/BIV%20Bronco/Fenders/P1000190.jpg http://i128.photobucket.com/albums/p198/Villanmotorsports/BIV%20Bronco/Fenders/P1000188.jpg http://i128.photobucket.com/albums/p198/Villanmotorsports/BIV%20Bronco/Fenders/P1000187.jpg http://i128.photobucket.com/albums/p198/Villanmotorsports/BIV%20Bronco/Fenders/P1000186.jpg Picking up my glass materials tomorrow.

Hero foil huh? MAN YOU ARE MY HERO, THIS IS FRIGGIN SICK. I was skeptical at first but dang. I was going to call it quits on mine, and I was posting it for sale tomorrow, but that was the inspiration I needed. Im keeping it, Im finishing it, Im racing it.. Thanks man. Congrats on a Job almost done.

CopyKat

07-23-2008, 05:32 AM

Hero foil huh? MAN YOU ARE MY HERO, THIS IS FRIGGIN SICK. I was skeptical at first but dang. I was going to call it quits on mine, and I was posting it for sale tomorrow, but that was the inspiration I needed. Im keeping it, Im finishing it, Im racing it.. Thanks man. Congrats on a Job almost done.

:eek::eek::eek: You can't be serious Chad?? The whole reason I am doing this is because you gave me the drive to do it, because it's nearly impossible to find a set of rear quarters used. You and James are the ones driving me to working on my truck. Granted I'll likely never race mine but you never know.

CopyKat

07-23-2008, 05:47 PM

I got one done in 4 layers. Fawkin gallon of resin for one. Slight miss calculation. What a PITA to do in the wheel well. Once I pull them off I'll run another couple of layers to thicken them up. They are in the path of flyin debris.

http://i128.photobucket.com/albums/p198/Villanmotorsports/BIV%20Bronco/Fenders/P1000191.jpg
http://i128.photobucket.com/albums/p198/Villanmotorsports/BIV%20Bronco/Fenders/P1000192.jpg
http://i128.photobucket.com/albums/p198/Villanmotorsports/BIV%20Bronco/Fenders/P1000193.jpg

tnt

07-23-2008, 06:46 PM

not bad,mat uses a lot of resin you have to roll the hell out of it, what are you going to use for your sanding coat ?If you dont have surfacing agent I suggest you use bondo.

CopyKat

07-23-2008, 08:24 PM

I suggest you use bondo.

That's what I'll be using.

tnt

07-23-2008, 08:39 PM

pigracing

07-23-2008, 09:15 PM

:eek::eek::eek: You can't be serious Chad?? The whole reason I am doing this is because you gave me the drive to do it, because it's nearly impossible to find a set of rear quarters used. You and James are the ones driving me to working on my truck. Granted I'll likely never race mine but you never know.

Oh man Chad. Sux to hear you may be bailing on your project.

Glad I can be an inspiration to ya though copykat-likewise those fenders return the favor. Looks like quite the messy operation over there but that's one hot quarter panel you got there:D

CopyKat

07-23-2008, 09:39 PM

try wetting out the mat and rolling it on a flat surface then puting it in place,you will save resin. do it on wax paper or foil pick it up slap it in place and roll it agian.are you using a metal roller or bristle?

I find it easier to wet the fender down with a paint brush first then apply the mat and wet it again. Then roll it with a metal roller I made. Looks like I may have to make another one if this one gums up. Worked out awsome.

So good infact...

Booooyaaaaaa

#2 done. I used a different resin I had, as I'm left with only 1 gallon left that I bought the other day. I've got about 2 gallons left from about 3. It was just over half of a 5 gallon pail. Now I have 2 fenders left to go. will be doing that tomorrow.
http://i128.photobucket.com/albums/p198/Villanmotorsports/BIV%20Bronco/Fenders/P1000194.jpg
http://i128.photobucket.com/albums/p198/Villanmotorsports/BIV%20Bronco/Fenders/P1000195.jpg

tnt

07-23-2008, 09:57 PM

tnt

07-23-2008, 10:06 PM

here is a photo I took today at the my factory this is one of my guys laminating a board http://i283.photobucket.com/albums/kk300/72792214/millar006.jpg

CopyKat

07-23-2008, 10:08 PM

well now , your saturation looks much better with less waist,your first resin looked like general purpose tooling resin whats the new stuff looks expensive.Im paying $1250.00 a drum every two weeks for polyester 249a.... frigging oil!!

The light colored stuff I picked up from a Marine shop. It's a generic brand because the label on the can was from their store.

The darker stuff I had picked up about a year ago. Don't know the brand or where it came from. I'll have to look on the label, if it's still there.:cool:

Blanco

07-23-2008, 10:16 PM

here is a photo I took today at the my factory this is one of my guys laminating a board http://i283.photobucket.com/albums/kk300/72792214/millar006.jpg

You totally make me wanna break out my board from the garage & try surfing again...
But, I've not surfed since I was a teen & I'm 41 yrs old now & 260lbs. :o

I've been thinking that the long board I have would fit in the back of my dually. :)

I already got my wax scrapper out & wanna clean up the board.

tnt

07-23-2008, 10:28 PM

that one is epoxy. im 44 260lbs I dont surf much anymore my shop is two miles from the beach and only see it once or twice a week.

Ckrue689

07-24-2008, 01:47 PM

well, Im not selling my project. I was seriously considering it because I bought a honda civic for 250 bux and all it needed was a new head. so I bought a new head threw it on and it runs like a champ. I saw copykat rear flares and I changed my mind about selling my B2, plus someone offered to buy the civic from me for 1400...

Ckrue689

07-24-2008, 01:55 PM

I find it easier to wet the fender down with a paint brush first then apply the mat and wet it again. Then roll it with a metal roller I made. Looks like I may have to make another one if this one gums up. Worked out awsome.

So good infact...

Booooyaaaaaa

#2 done. I used a different resin I had, as I'm left with only 1 gallon left that I bought the other day. I've got about 2 gallons left from about 3. It was just over half of a 5 gallon pail. Now I have 2 fenders left to go. will be doing that tomorrow.
http://i128.photobucket.com/albums/p198/Villanmotorsports/BIV%20Bronco/Fenders/P1000194.jpg
http://i128.photobucket.com/albums/p198/Villanmotorsports/BIV%20Bronco/Fenders/P1000195.jpg

DUDEEEEEE. I see one major issue. how the heck are you bolting these on? dzuz fasteners? I would have popped the hold and molded over the part that bolts to the core support.

im diggin the rears though!!!! I started shaping foam on mine, but Im going a little differently and not using a polystyrene foam. I found HUGE blocks of (i believe) polyurethane foam while I was out dumpster diving behind all the machine shops chula vista.. and 2 full sheets of lexan... its friggin sick!!!!!!!!

so now I need to buy resin. yo TNT what brand would you recommend? Ive always used the marine grade resin they sell all over... so Im going to need 5 GALLONS OF RESIN!!???? holy crap. I may just make a one piece hood then...

tnt

07-24-2008, 02:24 PM

He can use the stock fender for the mount,pop the glass off cut away most of the metal fender and gromet the fiberglass back to the stock metal mounts feather it in with long strand bondo.marine resin is the best for this kinda job surfboard resin is to lite and to much $

Ckrue689

07-24-2008, 02:35 PM

alright. hey, is your shop open right now? I looked at your site and it says you guys are over on 13th, Im right down the street. you mind if I swing by and pick your brain for a few minutes?

tnt

07-24-2008, 03:11 PM

im here open till 5pm, championship off road fri sat sun

CopyKat

07-24-2008, 08:43 PM

DUDEEEEEE. I see one major issue. how the heck are you bolting these on? dzuz fasteners? I would have popped the hold and molded over the part that bolts to the core support.

im diggin the rears though!!!! I started shaping foam on mine, but Im going a little differently and not using a polystyrene foam. I found HUGE blocks of (i believe) polyurethane foam while I was out dumpster diving behind all the machine shops chula vista.. and 2 full sheets of lexan... its friggin sick!!!!!!!!

so now I need to buy resin. yo TNT what brand would you recommend? Ive always used the marine grade resin they sell all over... so Im going to need 5 GALLONS OF RESIN!!???? holy crap. I may just make a one piece hood then...

They are pretty much Just skins. The white fenders I cut up and used on the front will get re used on my truck I've then got 3 sides/edges to fasten to. I'll use a Urethane adhiesive to glue them on and I'll run a couple of visible fasteners for the look. I also plan to put a metal hoop inside the fender to help give it more support, should I happen to rub something. The inner wheel lips will be near 6" wide. that in itself is more than enough strength.

I popped the 2 passenger side panels off tonight and dug out the foam. I'm impressed, they are pretty light. I would have to say a tad lighter than the steel fenders I removed. I've got to trim and grind them down.

I'll be mounting them with the screws before I start the bondo and finish work. This way they are solid on the truck and won't move around on me.

I got the drivers side front glassed up tonight. I wanted to do the rear but I know I don't have enough resin. I'll get another gallon. Should be more than enough and I'll have some left over to make another couple of round light bezels.

No pics tonight as there isn't much different than the last set.

CopyKat

07-26-2008, 10:59 AM

Drivers side front
http://i128.photobucket.com/albums/p198/Villanmotorsports/BIV%20Bronco/Fenders/P1000196.jpg

Drivers front with Fender frame.
http://i128.photobucket.com/albums/p198/Villanmotorsports/BIV%20Bronco/Fenders/P1000201.jpg

Rough Trimmed and mounted the fronts.
http://i128.photobucket.com/albums/p198/Villanmotorsports/BIV%20Bronco/Fenders/P1000202.jpg
http://i128.photobucket.com/albums/p198/Villanmotorsports/BIV%20Bronco/Fenders/P1000203.jpg

http://i128.photobucket.com/albums/p198/Villanmotorsports/BIV%20Bronco/Fenders/P1000204.jpg
http://i128.photobucket.com/albums/p198/Villanmotorsports/BIV%20Bronco/Fenders/P1000205.jpg

http://i128.photobucket.com/albums/p198/Villanmotorsports/BIV%20Bronco/Fenders/P1000206.jpg
http://i128.photobucket.com/albums/p198/Villanmotorsports/BIV%20Bronco/Fenders/P1000207.jpg
http://i128.photobucket.com/albums/p198/Villanmotorsports/BIV%20Bronco/Fenders/P1000208.jpg
http://i128.photobucket.com/albums/p198/Villanmotorsports/BIV%20Bronco/Fenders/P1000209.jpg

Ckrue689

07-26-2008, 05:37 PM

dang man. Im amazed. I talked to tim down at TNT, and we were both a little skepticle about the whole thing, but those things are gunna look bitchin. they'll probably be just as heavy, if not heavier than the stock fenders but if they look good, who gives a crap. Great job man...

Blanco

07-26-2008, 05:50 PM

Yeah I like the looks. http://www.thewebwheeler.com/forums/images/smilies/7.gif

CopyKat

07-28-2008, 06:53 AM

Here are a couple more of the fronts.

http://i128.photobucket.com/albums/p198/Villanmotorsports/BIV%20Bronco/Fenders/DSCF2295.jpg
http://i128.photobucket.com/albums/p198/Villanmotorsports/BIV%20Bronco/Fenders/DSCF2296.jpg
http://i128.photobucket.com/albums/p198/Villanmotorsports/BIV%20Bronco/Fenders/P1000211.jpg

Rears are done.
http://i128.photobucket.com/albums/p198/Villanmotorsports/BIV%20Bronco/Fenders/P1000210.jpg

Blanco

07-28-2008, 08:01 AM

http://www.thewebwheeler.com/forums/images/smilies/humm_smilie.gif I wonder if the wheel opening should be a little bigger?

Can you post a before & after Pic together?

CopyKat

07-28-2008, 11:04 AM

http://www.thewebwheeler.com/forums/images/smilies/humm_smilie.gif I wonder if the wheel opening should be a little bigger?

Can you post a before & after Pic together?
Before
http://i128.photobucket.com/albums/p198/Villanmotorsports/BIV%20Bronco/front%20susp/SuperD35/SuperD35037.jpg
After
http://i128.photobucket.com/albums/p198/Villanmotorsports/BIV%20Bronco/Fenders/P1000212.jpg

Ckrue689

07-29-2008, 08:12 PM

Mount the rears already!!!

CopyKat

07-30-2008, 12:58 PM

Mount the rears already!!!

Not yet. I've got some cutting to do along with some metal work. I'm hoping to get these to seal up so that I've got a dust free interior. I'd like to trim the least amount possible.

CopyKat

08-04-2008, 05:39 PM

Gutted the interior today and the rear fenders will likely be put on tomorrow.

:-D

CopyKat

08-05-2008, 10:30 AM

http://i128.photobucket.com/albums/p198/Villanmotorsports/BIV%20Bronco/Fenders/P1000242.jpg
http://i128.photobucket.com/albums/p198/Villanmotorsports/BIV%20Bronco/Fenders/P1000241.jpg
http://i128.photobucket.com/albums/p198/Villanmotorsports/BIV%20Bronco/Fenders/P1000240.jpg
http://i128.photobucket.com/albums/p198/Villanmotorsports/BIV%20Bronco/Fenders/P1000239.jpg

Have to fill the crack now
http://i128.photobucket.com/albums/p198/Villanmotorsports/BIV%20Bronco/Fenders/P1000238.jpg

http://i128.photobucket.com/albums/p198/Villanmotorsports/BIV%20Bronco/Fenders/P1000235.jpg
http://i128.photobucket.com/albums/p198/Villanmotorsports/BIV%20Bronco/Fenders/P1000236.jpg
http://i128.photobucket.com/albums/p198/Villanmotorsports/BIV%20Bronco/Fenders/P1000237.jpg

The rear tires don't look centered because I still have a zero rate add a leaf that locates my axle back 1.5". I'll be pulling that out when I do the shackle flip.

BajaDale

08-05-2008, 09:48 PM

Wow! looks good!! I like how you kept the body line in the fender too! Not bad for a Canadian;)..... Oh ya, stay off the Greyhound busses in Manitoba:eek:!

Ckrue689

08-06-2008, 10:39 AM

Ckrue689

08-11-2008, 02:33 PM

...kind of off topic but i thought id let you know how stupid some people are, i went out this morning to fire up my bronco to make sure everything was still happy and healthy, and as soon as it started it sounded like a pissed off v8 on steroids, i screamed WTF! because i thought something serious happened. i killed the motor not a second after i started it, at first i thought something happened with my headers, as i was scoping everything out i ducked under neath the truck and it turns out that some punk ass jerk stole the exhaust off my truck... Imagine my surprise and frustration. so now on top of everything else people are stealing parts from my truck out of my driveway. the guy must not have even know what he was doing because (im assuming he used a sawzall) he put a hole in the bottom of my truck where he cut it off.

total bullcrap.

so copykat any updates on the rears? hows all the sanding going??

CopyKat

08-11-2008, 02:36 PM

not bad man, not bad at all... one question though, how come you rounded out the rear wheel wells and kept the fronts square? still looks bitchin..

now just grind em down and finish up with some bondo! then you have ALOT of sanding to do..........

still, good job...

Something different and it just worked out better that way. The rear follows the factory tub. I had the fronts almost done when I started the rears. Didn't want to start over.

I find it looks goofy right now because of the height the truck sits at. Once I get the rear shackle flipped, I can then get the front height sorted out. to make it more level. Right now It sits almost 3" taller out back.

If put one layer of filler on the fronts and from the looks of it it's not going to need a whole lot. If I can find someone to lend me a belt sander, progress would speed up. I've been doing yard work and house stuff so I haven't really had time to work on the truck. I still have the POS Bronco in my garage that I need to strip down.

Ckrue689

08-11-2008, 02:52 PM

hey copykat, how bout sending that add a leaf down my way once you yank it out? im still not having luck finding deavers that are already broken in...

CopyKat

08-11-2008, 05:44 PM

hey copykat, how bout sending that add a leaf down my way once you yank it out? im still not having luck finding deavers that are already broken in...

Don't have an add a leaf. The pack is made up of an F150 main with an explorer 4 door pack under it. I cut the eyes off the explorer main and used it under the F150 main. The only other piece I have is an extended shackle.

Ckrue689

08-12-2008, 10:59 AM

The rear tires don't look centered because I still have a zero rate add a leaf that locates my axle back 1.5". I'll be pulling that out when I do the shackle flip.

didnt you post this?

plus, an F150 main combined with an exploder main would be oober stiff. have you tested that setup?

CopyKat

08-12-2008, 11:57 AM

Yes I have tested it and it's not as stiff as one would think.

I always get comments on how nice the truck drives.

The leaf packs and the extended shackle give me atleast 5" of lift without a block.

SO you want my Zero rate add a leaf? It's a 1/2" block that has an offset hole and a new center pin location. It gets bolted onto the bottom of the leaf pack.

http://i128.photobucket.com/albums/p198/Villanmotorsports/BIV%20Bronco/zerorate002.jpg
http://i128.photobucket.com/albums/p198/Villanmotorsports/BIV%20Bronco/zerorate001.jpg

http://i128.photobucket.com/albums/p198/Villanmotorsports/BIV%20Bronco/MoreBIV353.jpg

Ckrue689

08-12-2008, 11:45 PM

oh i thought it was a leaf, not a spacer. i misunderstood that one. Ive never seen that before...

so do you have alot of weight off the back? because the stock F150 pack alone is stiff as a board, im just curious as to how it would ride so soft with both of those main leafs in there... the spring rate on that exploder main alone is pretty high. anyway, is that F1-fiddy main a whole lot longer than the exploder or B2 main leaf?

CopyKat

08-13-2008, 04:15 AM

I've had a full 2wd F150 pack in when i first built the truck and it was SOFT. the only down side is to the lift I was running and without a bumpstop I was putting the springs in negative arc I cracked all but the main leaf. Since I had new bushings pressed in the F150 mains is the reason I have kept them. They too have a hair line crack. I noticed that the last time I had them apart. If I was to go wheeling I'm sure I'd break one or both.:eek:

I've got a set of Explorer 4 door packs with decent bushings sitting here waiting for me to put them on and do the shackle flip.

CopyKat

08-13-2008, 08:47 AM

Wow! looks good!! I like how you kept the body line in the fender too! Not bad for a Canadian;)..... Oh ya, stay off the Greyhound busses in Manitoba:eek:!

Crazy **** that was.

Checked out your site Dale and it looks like you guys have some cool projects on the go. That stepside F150 is looking bad ass.

pigracing

08-13-2008, 04:15 PM

Crazy **** that was.

You guys talking about that crazy dude that started eating some guy after murdering him or something like that?

CopyKat

08-13-2008, 06:13 PM

You guys talking about that crazy dude that started eating some guy after murdering him or something like that?

Ya but after stabbing him repeatedly he then cut the dudes head off, then started chowing down.:eek:

pigracing

08-14-2008, 03:50 PM

Ya but after stabbing him repeatedly he then cut the dudes head off, then started chowing down.:eek:

Yeah I read about that on another forum and.... well.... wow....:confused:

CopyKat

08-16-2008, 05:59 PM

Lowered the rear ride height to better match the front.
http://i128.photobucket.com/albums/p198/Villanmotorsports/BIV%20Bronco/rear%20susp/S4032849.jpg

http://i128.photobucket.com/albums/p198/Villanmotorsports/BIV%20Bronco/rear%20susp/S4032844.jpg

Ya I know it's rusty
http://i128.photobucket.com/albums/p198/Villanmotorsports/BIV%20Bronco/rear%20susp/S4032843.jpg

http://i128.photobucket.com/albums/p198/Villanmotorsports/BIV%20Bronco/rear%20susp/S4032845.jpg

I moved the bracket back so that I had a better shackle angle
http://i128.photobucket.com/albums/p198/Villanmotorsports/BIV%20Bronco/rear%20susp/S4032846.jpg

http://i128.photobucket.com/albums/p198/Villanmotorsports/BIV%20Bronco/rear%20susp/S4032847.jpg

Sits perfectly
Now I need to find springs that give the same height and then remove the blocks.
http://i128.photobucket.com/albums/p198/Villanmotorsports/BIV%20Bronco/rear%20susp/S4032856.jpg

CopyKat

08-16-2008, 07:59 PM

I was leary on doing it cuz I thought I was going to loose some travel but that was not the case. When I put the truck on my frame stands the rear tires were just starting to come off the ground. When I finished the flip the tires were touching, there was a bit of leaf separation so I'll have to set up some limit straps for the back. Still have to strap the front, and Bumpstops will need to be added for sure. Under hard flex the tab on the block will contact the frame.

Ckrue689

08-19-2008, 02:10 PM

did you weigh the fenders on the front? were they lighter or heavier than OEM? your not running a rear sway bar? thats scary...

Blanco

08-19-2008, 02:24 PM

your not running a rear sway bar? thats scary...

Why? http://www.thewebwheeler.com/forums/images/smilies/shrug.gif

I've not run any on my Bronco since I bought it.
It was one of the very 1st things I did to it.

CopyKat

08-19-2008, 06:05 PM

Why? http://www.thewebwheeler.com/forums/images/smilies/shrug.gif

I've not run any on my Bronco since I bought it.
It was one of the very 1st things I did to it.

Same here.

I think when i was pulling the original 7.5 out I used it for leaverage to pull it out and bent it. It's what 3/8" dia. Swaybars are overrated on offroad rigs.

No I have not weighed the fenders yet. I'll do that when I have them finished, before I bond them on. The rear's I believe to be lighter, but I still have nearly a full quarter panel under the fiberglass. Weight wasn't much of an issue. It's not a race truck.

pigracing

08-19-2008, 08:30 PM

I ditched my front sway bar early on as well. I kept the rear sway bar on up until I swapped my rear end and yet never missed it once it was gone.

CopyKat

08-20-2008, 06:46 PM

The grey spots are the low spots.
http://i128.photobucket.com/albums/p198/Villanmotorsports/BIV%20Bronco/Fenders/P1000302.jpg
http://i128.photobucket.com/albums/p198/Villanmotorsports/BIV%20Bronco/Fenders/P1000303.jpg
http://i128.photobucket.com/albums/p198/Villanmotorsports/BIV%20Bronco/Fenders/P1000304.jpg

Ckrue689

08-21-2008, 12:04 AM

I ditched the front one on mine years ago, but I swear the only thing that has kept me from going over is my rear sway bar, its not factory, the factory one bent when I hit a rock out in plaster city.... my current one is slightly similar to the ones used on trophy trucks but designed for midsize trucks. same exact one Im running on our class 7. runs between the fram rails, splined on both ends and the arms come off so i can get up underneath her and work on her rearend. Ill post some pictures of it on that midsize thread I started tomorrow.

those fenders look bitchin though, I would have gone with a round wheel well in the front, I suppose its too late now though...

plus Bronco II's have alot of body roll, FS broncos have less because they have a wider track width. if I had a FS i wouldnt be running them either...

Ckrue689

08-21-2008, 12:14 AM

CopyKat

08-21-2008, 04:14 AM

yo copykat, who makes those coil spring retainers? how are they made? does it just clamp on the coil with the bolt that runs through the radius arm? if you have some pics, shoot em my way. I dont want to fork over the cash for C/O's, I would rather have them but its not in my budget. and theres no way I can get them by october.

I had a buddy of mine make them up to my specs. It's a piece of pipe with a plate at the bottom. Yes there is a hole in the plate and it bolts to the beam. I've removed the factory stud/bolt combo and just have a grade 8 bolt. There is a loop inside the bucket that the coil has to make a 1/2 turn before the upper lines up, (F150 coil bucket). I then use the factory j clamp up top. Never spit a coil.

Ckrue689

08-21-2008, 11:59 AM

I had a buddy of mine make them up to my specs. It's a piece of pipe with a plate at the bottom. Yes there is a hole in the plate and it bolts to the beam. I've removed the factory stud/bolt combo and just have a grade 8 bolt. There is a loop inside the bucket that the coil has to make a 1/2 turn before the upper lines up, (F150 coil bucket). I then use the factory j clamp up top. Never spit a coil.

ok, but how do you keep the bottom end of the coil from coming out of the retainer? does it have a J clamp as well?

you dont have a close up pic of it do you? even on another forum?

CopyKat

08-21-2008, 12:09 PM

CopyKat

08-26-2008, 11:51 AM

I've been working on the rear bumper and I've been trying to get a swing out tire carrier on it but everything i doo looks like Ass. I think I may just go with a modified stocker, that has reenforced hinge areas. Likely to add something to the bottom that will put some weight on the new bumper. rather than all on the fiberglass hatch. Suxs that I've thrown 4 of them away. I guess I'll be going to the wrecking yards looking for one.

Ckrue689

09-06-2008, 03:44 AM

CopyKat

09-06-2008, 11:17 AM

so you put a milkshake on your truck? wth?

I have a design you might like. Its one of the ones I make at the shop. Ill hunt down some pics of it tomorrow. It has bends in it though, if you dont have access Ill send you the bent pieces. notched and all that too.

The fiberglass guys call it a milkshake. I mix mine 50% resin 50% bondo. With the mix it's like a milkshake. Then in a smaller container you mix the milkshake with the cream hardener for the bondo and catalist for the resin.

It's thin enough that you can use a paint brush and brush it on. This way you can build up thinner layers of bondo rather than putting a 1/4" skim and sand it nearly all off. This stuff is thin enough to fill in any pin holes. No harder to sand than regular bondo.

Pictures of the bumper would be cool I may steal some ideas. Shipping would suck for the cut parts. I've got access to a bender and a couple buddies have some toob if I need more.

Here is what I have so far.
http://i128.photobucket.com/albums/p198/Villanmotorsports/BIV%20Bronco/Exterior%20mods/bumperwcarrier.jpg
http://i128.photobucket.com/albums/p198/Villanmotorsports/BIV%20Bronco/Exterior%20mods/bumperwcarrier3.jpg
http://i128.photobucket.com/albums/p198/Villanmotorsports/BIV%20Bronco/Exterior%20mods/bumperwcarrier2.jpg

tnt

09-06-2008, 11:46 AM

The fiberglass guys call it a milkshake. I mix mine 50% resin 50% bondo. With the mix it's like a milkshake. Then in a smaller container you mix the milkshake with the cream hardener for the bondo and catalist for the resin.

milkshake? I like milkshakes vanilla :rolleyes:

CopyKat

09-08-2008, 07:56 AM

milkshake? I like milkshakes vanilla :rolleyes:

Sorry Tim they come out looking like strawberry, once the cream hardener is added.

Kinda sucks having to rock Pink fender flares:o

I was able to get some more shake on the fenders, and get some sanding in. Sunday this thing left.
http://i128.photobucket.com/albums/p198/Villanmotorsports/BIII%20Bronco/P1000342.jpg

So I have my shop back. I can atleast get it in out of the rain and cold to get more sanding done.

Ckrue689

09-09-2008, 12:54 PM

you know, I just remembered. James Duff has a swing away tire carrier like that. I was going to buy one before I decided to build mine for Race.

www.JamesDuff.com

He's got all sorts of goodies for BII's, you can steal his Ideas from there too...

Ckrue689

09-09-2008, 12:56 PM

http://i128.photobucket.com/albums/p198/Villanmotorsports/BIII%20Bronco/P1000342.jpg

So I have my shop back.

wait so someone actually bought that thing? were they on crack?

CopyKat

09-09-2008, 01:38 PM

wait so someone actually bought that thing? were they on crack?

Nope I gave the rest to my buddy to haul away for scrap.

Never been a fan of James Duff stuff. Seems like since they moved to Ky that they have abandonded all RBV stuff. From what I hear customer service SUCKS!

tnt

09-09-2008, 01:41 PM

thats some big country up there, looks like fall is setting in

CopyKat

09-11-2008, 07:34 AM

thats some big country up there, looks like fall is setting in

Yes Fall is near.

I'll be making some room to get the Bronco in the shop, to finish up the damn fenders. Between putting new flooring in the bathroom this weekend I'll be out in the shop sanding. I'd like to atleast have them smooth and in primer/gelcoat by the end of the month. If the weather holds out I'd like to get some paint on it too.

CopyKat

09-12-2008, 04:26 AM

So I got the truck in the shop and started a much needed project. Sealing the cowl floor. After all the patches I did to the top of the firewall this was one area I couldn't get to be cause the cowl is boxed in on these trucks. Unlike the Big Bronco and F150 you can unbolt the cowl. I'm replacing the old 87 one with one from a 90. I much prefer the 90 as it will let less Junk/not as big junk fall through the cracks.

http://i128.photobucket.com/albums/p198/Villanmotorsports/BIV%20Bronco/Exterior%20mods/Cowl%20Replace/P1000346.jpg

http://i128.photobucket.com/albums/p198/Villanmotorsports/BIV%20Bronco/Exterior%20mods/Cowl%20Replace/P1000343.jpg

http://i128.photobucket.com/albums/p198/Villanmotorsports/BIV%20Bronco/Exterior%20mods/Cowl%20Replace/P1000347.jpg

http://i128.photobucket.com/albums/p198/Villanmotorsports/BIV%20Bronco/Exterior%20mods/Cowl%20Replace/P1000349.jpg

The cowl lip at the window is spot welded to the window lip. This makes removal a PITA as to do it right you would have to remove the windshield. I had just resealed my window about a year and a half ago. I didn't want to risk cracking the window.

I still have more to go on it. It's ready to get put on. I've just got to give the inside of the cowl a good coat of paint/bed liner and then I can close it up. I plan to bond the window side lip with urethane adhiesive and plug weld all the holes I made cutting the old spot welds out.

straightaxle

09-12-2008, 05:00 PM

Us California boys just don't understand rust like that! Actually I can see some pretty severe surface rust down in the cowl of my 86 BII, even though it has always been here in CA. They just didn't use that good of material or coating down inside there. We had some Canadian gear heads down here chasing for us, and they just about fell out of the truck when a clean 79 Toyota 4x4 pickup pulled up next to us with a FOR SALE sign on it.

3amigo

09-13-2008, 06:32 PM

I have noticed what the cali guys call frame rot, in the rust belt we call minor surface rust.

CopyKat

09-15-2008, 06:20 AM

That rust is nothing compared to what was there. That's just surface rust on the backside of the welding I did. I'm so happy I was able to get it done, and look decent.

http://i128.photobucket.com/albums/p198/Villanmotorsports/BIV%20Bronco/Exterior%20mods/Cowl%20Replace/P1000352.jpg

http://i128.photobucket.com/albums/p198/Villanmotorsports/BIV%20Bronco/Exterior%20mods/Cowl%20Replace/P1000351.jpg

Ckrue689

09-18-2008, 01:50 AM

I love the fact that this is like 6 different trucks all rolled into one big bad pony...

Ckrue689

09-18-2008, 01:59 AM

There is a loop in the bucket. When i set the coil in the bucket I have to spin the coil about 180° to lock it in. It's a permanent J clip, in the bucket. This then orients the flat pigtail on the top of the EB coils, with the flat spot on the F150 bucket.

I know we've already been through this, but I cant picture what the loop looks like on that retainer. and your running an F150 bucket right? with early bronco coils? are they stock coils or lifted? I dont mean to bug you with all this, I just think it would be a better alternative than buying say a skyjacker kit. Unless anyone has any 5 inch lift spring for a bronco II or ranger they want to sell???

CopyKat

09-18-2008, 05:50 AM

I know we've already been through this, but I cant picture what the loop looks like on that retainer. and your running an F150 bucket right? with early bronco coils? are they stock coils or lifted? I dont mean to bug you with all this, I just think it would be a better alternative than buying say a skyjacker kit. Unless anyone has any 5 inch lift spring for a bronco II or ranger they want to sell???

I'll try to get some better pictures tonight. Yes F150 bucket that I cut the shock mount off and grafted it closed. An early bronco coil bucket would work too. The coils are 5.5" Wildhorses rockcrawlers (235/375 spring rate). With the lower retainer they are good for about 3.5" of lift on my BroncoII.

An RBV 5" lift coil is going to be stiff as fawk unless you get a custom wound coil or something from Autofab or Camburg.

CopyKat

09-18-2008, 10:19 PM

Here is some video to tie you over.

YouTube - Field Testing

Blanco

09-19-2008, 04:37 AM

What? No whoops? http://www.thewebwheeler.com/forums/images/smilies/shrug.gif

CopyKat

09-19-2008, 05:45 AM

What? No whoops? http://www.thewebwheeler.com/forums/images/smilies/shrug.gif

No. It's pretty fawkin flat. There are drainage channels but they are pretty short and sharp at the bottom making them pretty rough and not much good as whoops.

There is a part 2 to the video where I go cross ways through part of one. I was trying to load that one but it timed out on me. I'll try again tonight.

CopyKat

09-19-2008, 06:26 AM

On another note, I was able to get out in the shop and work on the fenders again.

I've got one front nearly done. It's got a coat of highbuild primer on it and there are a few pin holes that need some glaze putty. from there I'll sand a finer grit than 40, and start with another coat of highbuild.

Pics to come this weekend, and I'm going to try to get the fronts 100% done.

The one looks pretty damned good, smoothed out and in primer.:D

Ckrue689

09-19-2008, 06:40 PM

on another note, i was able to get out in the shop and work on the fenders again.

I've got one front nearly done. It's got a coat of highbuild primer on it and there are a few pin holes that need some glaze putty. From there i'll sand a finer grit than 40, and start with another coat of highbuild.

Pics to come this weekend, and i'm going to try to get the fronts 100% done.

The one looks pretty damned good, smoothed out and in primer.:d

sweeeeeeeeeeeeeet!!!:D:D:D

CopyKat

09-21-2008, 07:11 AM

Body work is nearly done on the fronts. I've got another coulple coats of primer to add then to glaze the pin holes, and another coat or two of primer.

http://i128.photobucket.com/albums/p198/Villanmotorsports/BIV%20Bronco/Fenders/P1000369.jpg
http://i128.photobucket.com/albums/p198/Villanmotorsports/BIV%20Bronco/Fenders/P1000370.jpg
http://i128.photobucket.com/albums/p198/Villanmotorsports/BIV%20Bronco/Fenders/P1000371.jpg

Ckrue689

09-21-2008, 12:55 PM

shnazzy... "Hey Bro, those are totally gnar Bro! What company makes em Bro??"

thats how most of the wannabe idiots down here talk and it drives me up a damn wall...

CopyKat

09-22-2008, 07:28 AM

shnazzy... "Hey Bro, those are totally gnar Bro! What company makes em Bro??"

VillanMotorSports made 'em Dawg. They are off the hook yo!:p

I got the colector gaskets so now I just need to drop the Y-pipe. Internal Sleave the joint so that there is less blow by. It's a ****ty setup if you ask me. One of the only beefs I have with the hedman headers.

I hope to get that fixed if it's not raining.

I've now got another side project and a parts truck at my place. I'm getting an 80's F150 for some parts. And I have a buddies Ranger that needs some TLC. He's got big dreams of Deavers, FOA's, and a Cut and turn front. Not sure if I am going to make it wider or not. Depends on his coilovers he gets.

Look for that build on DR some time soon.

Ckrue689

09-22-2008, 09:44 PM

sweeeeet. I had to make the headers on mine yesterday. They arent exactly equal length, but they couldnt fit any better. As long as it prevents the heads from cracking, they work...

CopyKat

09-23-2008, 05:44 AM

I messed around a bit yesterday. Didn't get to my exhaust. Maybe today if it dries up outside.

I did add these though. I was able to bring the A-pillars down to bare metal. I thought there was more putty in them then just that skim. It was there to smooth a couple of spots out. Took the wire wheel to it and layed a good coat of primer.

http://i128.photobucket.com/albums/p198/Villanmotorsports/BIV%20Bronco/P1000377.jpg
http://i128.photobucket.com/albums/p198/Villanmotorsports/BIV%20Bronco/P1000379.jpg
http://i128.photobucket.com/albums/p198/Villanmotorsports/BIV%20Bronco/P1000381.jpg

Then it started to pour, so instead of leaving the truck outside with bare metal pillars and branch busters I pulled it into the shop. Since the tractor is in the barn right now.

http://i128.photobucket.com/albums/p198/Villanmotorsports/BIV%20Bronco/P1000382.jpg

It was too dark to get a picture of the F150 that is outside the door behind the ranger.

CopyKat

09-23-2008, 08:11 PM

MMMMmmmmm Parts

http://i128.photobucket.com/albums/p198/Villanmotorsports/tempsell/P1000389.jpg
http://i128.photobucket.com/albums/p198/Villanmotorsports/tempsell/P1000392.jpg

I managed to get my collector leak fixed. Pulled the y-pipe off to find this..........

http://i128.photobucket.com/albums/p198/Villanmotorsports/BIV%20Bronco/P1000387.jpg

So I made a new one and welded it up
http://i128.photobucket.com/albums/p198/Villanmotorsports/BIV%20Bronco/P1000386.jpg

It's SO much quieter now and the exhaust sounds bad ass now. Not so much like an old grain truck.

Ckrue689

09-23-2008, 09:41 PM

So, Out of curiosity and I mean no offense but do you freaking live in the Rust Capitol or what?

"HOLY RUSTED METAL BATMAN!!"

CopyKat

09-23-2008, 09:47 PM

So, Out of curiosity and I mean no offense but do you freaking live in the Rust Capitol or what?

"HOLY RUSTED METAL BATMAN!!"

**** rusts over night here.

My buddy got it for me for parts. I've found/had countless vehicles for him to haul away for scrap. So he's made alot of cash off me so he gives me first pickens when he gets a truck or car. He told me about this one last year, he just didn't know when he was going to get it.

Parts I see off the hop I want is the D44 TTB, T18 trans, and possibly the 8.8.

Ckrue689

09-24-2008, 12:26 PM

Well, That works! cool, have fun tearing apart that pos...

Ckrue689

09-29-2008, 09:48 PM

so whats up buddy!!!! any updates???

pigracing

09-29-2008, 09:55 PM

Nice "branch busters". Your b2 def looks goods.

Man that f150 has seen some better days though huh?

CopyKat

09-30-2008, 05:50 AM

No updates right now. I did manage to get the D44 TTB out of the F150 yesterday.

I've got to get cracken on them rear fenders. I've still got to weld in some steel to fill the hole that was left over after the cutting. I picked up some paint on the weekend for the door jams and insides of the newer doors. Just have to mix it up, and pull my good doors apart to get a good layer down, with minimal masking.

CopyKat

10-03-2008, 06:11 AM

Small updates not worth pictures yet. I got one of the rear fenders blocked down again. I need to get on the sanding sooner. I applied a layer of the milkshake and doubled in a couple of spots just to use up the mixed slurry I had. It's been about 2-3 weeks now since I did it and damn is that shat hard. It's like trying to sand granite rock.:mad: It's taking a bit longer than planned. I've got a few more spots to fill on that one side and I'll block it down again.

Started on the other side and have the top nearly done. Now I just have the lower part below the body line to do.

Might get a couple of pictures up this weekend. I've got to fill the cuts I made to the wheel tubs. I can then get my interior put back in.

After some driving I've noticed that the explorer springs are starting to sag. I may have to add another leaf to the pack or find another set of F150 springs.

CopyKat

10-22-2008, 05:58 AM

OK well things have changed Drastically in my life. So right now I have LOTS of time to work on the truck. Just need to get the modivation to do it. I got laid off permanently from my Job.:(:(

Blanco

10-22-2008, 02:09 PM

Good luck finding another job man!

Ckrue689

10-23-2008, 01:24 AM

OK well things have changed Drastically in my life. So right now I have LOTS of time to work on the truck. Just need to get the modivation to do it. I got laid off permanently from my Job.:(:(

DUDE WTF!!! SO DID I!!! well, from my Dayjob anyway. I still work at the shop...

I have my exam for the CBP (California Border Patrol) on Nov. 7th...wish me luck...

CopyKat

10-23-2008, 07:23 AM

Ya having no day job sucks. I don't have anything to even fall back on. I just have my shop and my truck.

I'm at least able to spend some quality time with my son. And that's what counts.

CopyKat

10-23-2008, 08:31 AM

Just faxed an application form to Arctic Cat.;)

CopyKat

10-24-2008, 08:40 AM

Here is an update as to what I have going on. The Ranger 8.8 has 4.10 gears and I'm just trying to get it setup properly. i need to get a pinion bearing and axle bearings and seals.

I've got a 4.10 D35 center section already.

When the rear axle goes in I have Durango leaf springs and newer clean (Not rusty) shackles to go on. Just need to get some new U- bolts.

Still have the rear fenders to seal/close up and get the fiberglass quarters puttied and primered for the winter.

Ckrue689

10-27-2008, 10:35 PM

Winter's coming fast man.. pick up the pace.

JK ;)

CopyKat

10-30-2008, 10:19 PM

OK I've gotten some drive back. I spent the past 3 days out in the shop going through everything and cleaned the place up. I pulled the saginaw pump out and am going to give it one more go. Just need to get some cooler lines and I'll be ready to bolt it on.

I've got a upper intake gasket and valve cover gasket set and plan to swap the pushrods and rocker assy's with another set I have.

Change the oil filter and change the oil. Check the coolant and that should about do me for tomorrows list of things to do.

CopyKat

11-02-2008, 05:35 AM

OK I got some things done. Thanks to a buddy of mine that came down to give me a hand.

Saginaw pump is in and working.

http://i128.photobucket.com/albums/p198/Villanmotorsports/BIV%20Bronco/Saginaw%20PS%20upgrade/681afb98.jpg

You can see that the valve covers were removed, so the rockers and pushrods were changed/fixed. I was cheap and did a Junk yard swap. I had another set kicken around that I used the good pushrods and the good rockers from. I only had to change out 3 rockers and the mateing pushrods from my originals. Sure is quiet now, without the tick of the valve train and the whine of the PS pump.

I can hear that my exhaust is leaking again.:mad:

pigracing

11-02-2008, 10:04 AM

Sorry to hear about both of your lay offs. My company has been laying off like never before which has gotten me pretty rattled.

CopyKat

11-02-2008, 01:06 PM

So I finished a few things up and reinstalled my second battery, after I relocated the horns.

I also wired up the bumper mounted lights. Just need to aim them later tonight.

Going to start sealing up the interior tonight and tomorrow. Then I can get my interior back together.

It's been kinda nice here the past few days it's been in the 60° weather. Kinda nice for being the beginning of November

CopyKat

11-08-2008, 07:00 AM

Got out in the shop last night and got some work done to sealing the cut out I had to make to clear the fenders. I have a bit of welding inside to do as it's easier than overhead welding. So the drivers side is about 90% done. Now I have a better idea if what is going on so the Passenger side should go pretty quick.

CopyKat

11-13-2008, 09:03 AM

So the rear fenders wells are sealed up. The ranger 8.8 I was trying to gear got sent out to a shop to finish it. I have no clue as to what I was doing and would like more practice at it before I gear for a DD. I've got my Durango leaf springs newer shackles and U-bolts and spring plates. Now I just wait for the axle so that I can fit the near axle bearings and seals. Mount up the caliper brackets. Cut the studs down. Put the axle all together and get it under my truck. Then I pull the front apart and get the 4.10 diff installed.

CopyKat

11-28-2008, 04:45 PM

So I got some more work done. The rear axle has the 4.10 gears setup. I've put new wheel end bearings in along with new seals. Locker and axles are installed. Caliper brackets are on. Just need to bolt them solid.

Almost time to get the axle bolted in.

Just need to get some hard line and the flex line for the brakes.

When I install the 4.10 pig up front I'll be putting new rotors and changing the brake pads.

4.10's are comming. Just a matter of time.

CopyKat

12-17-2008, 08:41 AM

I've got a blown head gasket so the bronco will be pulled into the shop and the engine is gettting a regasket and some port work on the heads.

While the engine is out I'll be installing the rear axle and swapping out 5the front diff. for the 4.10 geared units.

Ckrue689

12-21-2008, 05:43 PM

Im not too familiar with the 4.0 but if its anything like the 2.9 I would make sure you port match the upper intake manifold to the lower manifold and also match the lower to the heads. makes an ENORMOUS difference in throttle response. that and a mild cam upgrade.. now if you really want to get crazy, while you have the heads off and are doing all that, send out the heads and have a 3 seat valve job done..

also whoever is doing the port and polish, make sure they use a flowbench or are "highly experienced" in porting, cuz if they dont know what they are doing they can either royally f*ck up the heads or make it run even worse than stock.

I made that mistake on the race motor I built for my old civic, my boss ruined the head on the motor. wasted about 3 grand worth of valve work and I had to buy a new head and do it alllllllll over again...... Just BE CAREFUL.

CopyKat

12-22-2008, 04:00 PM

The upper intake is fee flowing the exhaust was/is the restriction. The original plan was to throw the 95 heads I have on the 91 block. Port the exhaust and leave it at that. My Brother-in-law has been riding my ass to turbocharge the truck. SO I took him up on the offer.

I'll be pulling the headers off and going back to stock manifolds so that I can flip the passenger side one to mount up the turbo. I'll only be running 5-6 PSI from the T3/T4 setup from his 280ZX. The 95 heads will be put on the shelf and same with the headers. I'll be using the stock 91 heads to keep the compression to 9.5:1.

The 4.10's will be getting done along with the new rear axle and durango springs.

Time to get cracken and get things done. Now if I had the turbo in hand I could start getting placement for it.

BajaBronco13

12-22-2008, 05:13 PM

Check out the pics of Solo Motorsports BII. Nice inspiration to keep going with your build:

http://solomotorsports.com/images/2008b1k/index.html

CopyKat

12-22-2008, 06:35 PM

Believe me that B2 has been inspiration the first time I saw it. That truck alone was enough to sway me towards the way I have gone with the build. Thanks for posting those.:)

CopyKat

01-14-2009, 06:50 AM

I'll admit I've been slacking big time. I should of had this already done but when it's -49° with the wind chill, working in a half insulated, limited heated shop. Is just not appealing right now.

:(

Blanco

01-14-2009, 07:30 AM

when it's -49° with the wind chill, working in a half insulated, limited heated shop. Is just not appealing right now.

:(
Wuss... :rolleyes:

Broncodawg

01-14-2009, 10:40 AM

That there is what you call Butt-Ass cold! Can't even imagine that:eek:

Blanco

01-14-2009, 05:08 PM

Yeah, makes dealing with the bumper to bumper traffic in L.A. not seem so bad. :o That there is what you call Butt-Ass cold! Can't even imagine that:eek:

gunit

01-15-2009, 01:15 AM

I don't knows what is going on in Canada but This is not happening in Az.

CopyKat

01-15-2009, 11:47 AM

Suposed to be +2°C (about 38°F) this Saturday.:confused::confused::confused:

Kinda messed up if you ask me. But I'll take it for what it is even if it's in the teens I'll still be out there. I'm going to try to get the rear axle and newer springs in place this weekend and see where it sits. Still waiting for a few turbo parts. I picked up a new O2 bottle for the cutting torch so I can cut out the turbo flanges from the 1/2" plate I have.

Ckrue689

01-17-2009, 03:32 PM

DUDEEEE no.. use 3/8" cold rolled for the flanges... Half inch is a pain in the ass to deal with. trace the outline of the flange you need email it to me, Ill cut it out on the plasma-cam and mail them to you. It will be much cleaner.. it sounds like your trying to make a log manifold, reversing the factory manifold wont work, at all... you are going to be better off if you mount the snail on the Y pipe next to the tranny and just make a shield for it. you'll be able to keep the housing much cooler, you'll have more room, and you'll spool up wayyy faster...just my .02... SHIZZ I gotta go.. TIME FOR MONSTER JAMM.. hit me up if you want me to make the flanges..

CopyKat

01-19-2009, 05:47 PM

I've got access to a lazer cell if I needed it cut to look pretty. I've got time on my hands and I have all the stuff here. I can whip something out in a day easy. At best it would take me a week to get the lazer cut parts or 2 weeks from you, Chad.

I'm not building manifolds. I'm using the stock manifolds and I plan to make a turnup pipe on the passenger side to get to the turbo. Old Y-pipe with mods will be made to join new parts. I just need to make the flange that the turbo will bolt to.

I've got the wastegate and controler along with the downpipe flange.

motrucker

01-19-2009, 08:13 PM

I don't knows what is going on in Canada but This is not happening in Az.

right there with ya, im not complaining

CopyKat

01-21-2009, 04:33 PM

Finally got motivated to work on the truck.

Got the durango springs mounted and happy with the way they mocked up. Shackle angle looks good to me.

http://i128.photobucket.com/albums/p198/Villanmotorsports/BIV%20Bronco/rear%20susp/Durango005.jpg

http://i128.photobucket.com/albums/p198/Villanmotorsports/BIV%20Bronco/rear%20susp/Durango003.jpg

Now to get the new locked axle in place and see if I need to redrill the spring pads to center the axle. They look to be 1.5" forward from the explorer springs I had previous.

I'll get the axle mocked in tonight and get some weight on the springs and see if they will give me the ride height I'm after.

CopyKat

01-22-2009, 06:58 AM

So I got the axle in and somewhat centered. I've got to tweek it a bit so that I can get the top bolts out for the calipers. Ya it's that close to the spring.:mad:

http://i128.photobucket.com/albums/p198/Villanmotorsports/BIV%20Bronco/rear%20susp/P1000629.jpg

It's on the jack right now but I'll be getting it off the stands so that I can set the pinion angle.

I ended up drilling a new hole in the spring pad to relocate the axle back 1.5". It just sits that much better. it was too far forward in the stock point.

http://i128.photobucket.com/albums/p198/Villanmotorsports/BIV%20Bronco/rear%20susp/P1000628.jpg

The next thing I have to work on is the front bracket. Looks like I'm going to have to do some cutting to make sure the springs clear. I have a feeling they will contact when the rear is at full bump.

http://i128.photobucket.com/albums/p198/Villanmotorsports/BIV%20Bronco/rear%20susp/P1000631.jpg

Other than that. it's looking pretty good so far.
Shackle angle with some weight. remember it's still on the stands.
http://i128.photobucket.com/albums/p198/Villanmotorsports/BIV%20Bronco/rear%20susp/P1000634.jpg

CopyKat

01-29-2009, 03:05 PM

Here are some of the pictures.

Got the clearance I needed for the leaf springs.
http://i128.photobucket.com/albums/p198/Villanmotorsports/BIV%20Bronco/rear%20susp/Durango007.jpg
http://i128.photobucket.com/albums/p198/Villanmotorsports/BIV%20Bronco/rear%20susp/Durango013.jpg

I see I forgot to put the bolt in proper for the shock.
http://i128.photobucket.com/albums/p198/Villanmotorsports/BIV%20Bronco/rear%20susp/Durango012.jpg
http://i128.photobucket.com/albums/p198/Villanmotorsports/BIV%20Bronco/rear%20susp/Durango011.jpg
http://i128.photobucket.com/albums/p198/Villanmotorsports/BIV%20Bronco/rear%20susp/Durango010.jpg

Full weight of the truck on the springs.
http://i128.photobucket.com/albums/p198/Villanmotorsports/BIV%20Bronco/rear%20susp/Durango009.jpg
http://i128.photobucket.com/albums/p198/Villanmotorsports/BIV%20Bronco/rear%20susp/Durango008.jpg

CopyKat

01-30-2009, 10:35 AM

Here are some new pictures.

http://i128.photobucket.com/albums/p198/Villanmotorsports/BIV%20Bronco/rear%20susp/Rangeraxle001.jpg
http://i128.photobucket.com/albums/p198/Villanmotorsports/BIV%20Bronco/rear%20susp/Rangeraxle002.jpg

Driveshaft angle.
http://i128.photobucket.com/albums/p198/Villanmotorsports/BIV%20Bronco/rear%20susp/Rangeraxle003.jpg

Other shots
http://i128.photobucket.com/albums/p198/Villanmotorsports/BIV%20Bronco/rear%20susp/Rangeraxle004.jpg
http://i128.photobucket.com/albums/p198/Villanmotorsports/BIV%20Bronco/rear%20susp/Rangeraxle005.jpg

CopyKat

01-31-2009, 08:52 AM

Final ride height. Just need to add about another quart of oil to the diff.

http://i128.photobucket.com/albums/p198/Villanmotorsports/BIV%20Bronco/rear%20susp/Rangeraxle006.jpg
http://i128.photobucket.com/albums/p198/Villanmotorsports/BIV%20Bronco/rear%20susp/Rangeraxle008.jpg

CopyKat

01-31-2009, 05:49 PM

:D
Empty space
http://i128.photobucket.com/albums/p198/Villanmotorsports/BIV%20Bronco/engine%20trans%20swap/Engine%20rebuild/turbo002.jpg
Started the pipes
http://i128.photobucket.com/albums/p198/Villanmotorsports/BIV%20Bronco/engine%20trans%20swap/Engine%20rebuild/turbo001.jpg

Turbo flange
http://i128.photobucket.com/albums/p198/Villanmotorsports/BIV%20Bronco/engine%20trans%20swap/Engine%20rebuild/turbo003.jpg
http://i128.photobucket.com/albums/p198/Villanmotorsports/BIV%20Bronco/engine%20trans%20swap/Engine%20rebuild/turbo004.jpg
http://i128.photobucket.com/albums/p198/Villanmotorsports/BIV%20Bronco/engine%20trans%20swap/Engine%20rebuild/turbo005.jpg
http://i128.photobucket.com/albums/p198/Villanmotorsports/BIV%20Bronco/engine%20trans%20swap/Engine%20rebuild/turbo006.jpg

straightaxle

01-31-2009, 07:08 PM

That should wake that puppy up!

CopyKat

01-31-2009, 07:32 PM

That should wake that puppy up!

Someone with a similar setup just ran his on a Dyno and pulled a 155 Hp/250Tq at the rear wheels.

CopyKat

02-01-2009, 04:52 PM

straightaxle

02-01-2009, 07:18 PM

So today I pulled the engine out and got it on the stand. Now to pull it apart and see where I was loosing coolant. I've my fingers crossed that it's just a headgasket that went. If the heads are cracked I have my buddies truck here he said I could pull the heads off of.

95% chance its the heads that are cracked, its just a matter of time. Pull the valve covers off and look on top, that's where mine have cracked Do you know anyone that has used the World heads? Unfortunately the coolant in the oil wipes all the babbit off the bearings. The one I have left running can't keep the oil pressure up enough to keep the lifters pumped up anymore, so it's a little more than just bolting on new heads.

CopyKat

02-03-2009, 11:20 AM

Got the engine ripped down to a short block and I can't see where the coolant was leaking from. You'd think there would be a stain but there is nothing I can visually see. the whole back of the block was wet.

I'm taking a stabbing guess that it was the coolant crossover port going into the lower intake.

straightaxle

02-03-2009, 11:46 AM

Could be the coolant cross over. Be sure to hot tank or steam clean the heads and have a pretty close look at them before bolting them back on. Maybe even figure out a way to pressure test them. I went completely through the first set of heads, had the valves done, and them bolted them back on. The thing ran like stink, but still dribbled water into the oil. I just stripped that engine down again a couple months ago to see if it was worth saving, and the cracks were very evident in at least one of the heads. One crack was 3 or 4 inches long over the top, through a valve spring seat and through the valve cover rail almost down to one of the spark plugs. Bizarre!

CopyKat

02-03-2009, 01:44 PM

I might take them into a Cyl head shop and get the shop to give them a once over.

I should have capped the coolant lines and pressurized the system with air before I tore it down.:( I'll know for next time.

Ckrue689

02-08-2009, 04:10 PM

...

CopyKat

02-13-2009, 12:15 PM

Here are some progress shots. Getting the engine back together. I don't like how the pipes are comming together for the exhaust so once back in the truck I'll be redoing the passenger side.

http://i128.photobucket.com/albums/p198/Villanmotorsports/BIV%20Bronco/engine%20trans%20swap/Engine%20rebuild/engineRR008.jpg
http://i128.photobucket.com/albums/p198/Villanmotorsports/BIV%20Bronco/engine%20trans%20swap/Engine%20rebuild/engineRR007.jpg

Went to clock the turbo center to line up the oil passage and 5 of the 6 bolts broke in the housing.:mad: My new M8 tap is getting a workout.:confused:

CopyKat

02-21-2009, 10:57 AM

Engine is now back in the truck and it's time to redo the exhaust to the turbo.

CopyKat

02-23-2009, 09:01 AM

http://i128.photobucket.com/albums/p198/Villanmotorsports/BIV%20Bronco/engine%20trans%20swap/Engine%20rebuild/engineRR014.jpg
http://i128.photobucket.com/albums/p198/Villanmotorsports/BIV%20Bronco/engine%20trans%20swap/Engine%20rebuild/engineRR015.jpg

CopyKat

02-24-2009, 08:07 AM

Here this setup will flow better. Just need to give me time and I'll figure it out.

My Choppy elbow was actually a great start. This gave me the opportunity to place the turbo where I wanted and make a brace for it too. I could then cut the elbow off and the brace would keep the flange right in the same spot.

Still have room to drop the 2.5" down pipe and connect to the stock system.

http://i128.photobucket.com/albums/p198/Villanmotorsports/BIV%20Bronco/engine%20trans%20swap/Engine%20rebuild/Turbopipes003.jpg
http://i128.photobucket.com/albums/p198/Villanmotorsports/BIV%20Bronco/engine%20trans%20swap/Engine%20rebuild/Turbopipes004.jpg
http://i128.photobucket.com/albums/p198/Villanmotorsports/BIV%20Bronco/engine%20trans%20swap/Engine%20rebuild/Turbopipes006.jpg
http://i128.photobucket.com/albums/p198/Villanmotorsports/BIV%20Bronco/engine%20trans%20swap/Engine%20rebuild/Turbopipes002.jpg

Ckrue689

02-26-2009, 04:28 PM

you should be able to get plenty of unrestricted flow outta that setup, are you running an intercooler? where are you mounting it??

CopyKat

03-01-2009, 07:06 AM

you should be able to get plenty of unrestricted flow outta that setup, are you running an intercooler? where are you mounting it??

No intercooler. Atleast not at this time.

Here is some of last nights progress. I was hoping to keep the stock flange after the y-pipe but it is going to have to go. After adding the front piece on the flange it puts it WAY to far forward. From the looks of it I can chop it back nearly a foot and have it meet up good. So I will be adding a new flange to it further back. Monday I'll get the flange and get the last part of the exhaust cut. Next is to get more things in the engine bay and start on the intake pipes. Once everything is ironed out I'll pull the new stuff off and fully weld it.

http://i128.photobucket.com/albums/p198/Villanmotorsports/BIV%20Bronco/engine%20trans%20swap/Engine%20rebuild/Turbopipes007.jpg
http://i128.photobucket.com/albums/p198/Villanmotorsports/BIV%20Bronco/engine%20trans%20swap/Engine%20rebuild/Turbopipes011.jpg
http://i128.photobucket.com/albums/p198/Villanmotorsports/BIV%20Bronco/engine%20trans%20swap/Engine%20rebuild/Turbopipes009.jpg
http://i128.photobucket.com/albums/p198/Villanmotorsports/BIV%20Bronco/engine%20trans%20swap/Engine%20rebuild/Turbopipes008.jpg
http://i128.photobucket.com/albums/p198/Villanmotorsports/BIV%20Bronco/engine%20trans%20swap/Engine%20rebuild/Turbopipes010.jpg

CopyKat

03-04-2009, 11:48 PM

Here are some more updates.

Added injectors I'll be using. One has an injector holder/retainer on it. Both will have the retainers.

http://i128.photobucket.com/albums/p198/Villanmotorsports/BIV%20Bronco/engine%20trans%20swap/Engine%20rebuild/Turbopipes015.jpg

Started to run the oil line. Just need to find the restrictor hole diameter for the top plate and I can build a plate and connect the oil feed line. Need to get a 3/8 NPT tap and make the bottom return line adapter.

http://i128.photobucket.com/albums/p198/Villanmotorsports/BIV%20Bronco/engine%20trans%20swap/Engine%20rebuild/Turbopipes016.jpg

CopyKat

03-06-2009, 07:30 AM

Here is a good location for the gauge.

http://i128.photobucket.com/albums/p198/Villanmotorsports/BIV%20Bronco/engine%20trans%20swap/Engine%20rebuild/Turbobuild016.jpg

I plan to cut the tube on the back at an angle, and weld a plate to the back. Then paint it black just to clean it up a bit. I'll run the wires and hose out the bottom of the housing and through the dash.

http://i128.photobucket.com/albums/p198/Villanmotorsports/BIV%20Bronco/engine%20trans%20swap/Engine%20rebuild/Turbobuild015.jpg

Here is my bling for this project. Fawkin $40 piece of tube. :eek: Just waiting to get my hose couplers and need to build an adapter for the MAFS.
http://i128.photobucket.com/albums/p198/Villanmotorsports/BIV%20Bronco/engine%20trans%20swap/Engine%20rebuild/Turbobuild014.jpg

Here is the connection for the exhaust. With the flange on the one end of the downtube, makes for snaking the the pipe from the top a bit difficult but do-able.
http://i128.photobucket.com/albums/p198/Villanmotorsports/BIV%20Bronco/engine%20trans%20swap/Engine%20rebuild/Turbobuild008.jpg

Here is the rest of the intake piping. Again I'm waiting to get the couplers.
http://i128.photobucket.com/albums/p198/Villanmotorsports/BIV%20Bronco/engine%20trans%20swap/Engine%20rebuild/Turbobuild009.jpg
http://i128.photobucket.com/albums/p198/Villanmotorsports/BIV%20Bronco/engine%20trans%20swap/Engine%20rebuild/Turbobuild010.jpg
http://i128.photobucket.com/albums/p198/Villanmotorsports/BIV%20Bronco/engine%20trans%20swap/Engine%20rebuild/Turbobuild011.jpg

CopyKat

03-07-2009, 08:24 PM

I was able to spare some time today and get the oil line adapters made and installed.

http://i128.photobucket.com/albums/p198/Villanmotorsports/BIV%20Bronco/engine%20trans%20swap/Engine%20rebuild/Turbobuild019.jpg
http://i128.photobucket.com/albums/p198/Villanmotorsports/BIV%20Bronco/engine%20trans%20swap/Engine%20rebuild/Turbobuild018.jpg

retroblazer

03-08-2009, 02:41 PM

How did the idea to turbo develop?

CopyKat

03-08-2009, 07:21 PM

How did the idea to turbo develop?

My brother inlaw has been on my case to turbo something since I've known him. So he was nice enough to donate the turbo and some other small parts to the project. If I would of had to pay over $250 for a rebuilt turbo, I surely would not be doing this. I'm already about $300 into this already. Too far along in the project to call it quits now.

CopyKat

03-18-2009, 02:16 PM

In no way have I given up on this. Here is some more progress. Started to get a few more things installed. Couple more pieces to install, then it can come apart and have the tubes fully welded.

http://i128.photobucket.com/albums/p198/Villanmotorsports/BIV%20Bronco/engine%20trans%20swap/Engine%20rebuild/Turbobuild029.jpg
http://i128.photobucket.com/albums/p198/Villanmotorsports/BIV%20Bronco/engine%20trans%20swap/Engine%20rebuild/Turbobuild024.jpg
http://i128.photobucket.com/albums/p198/Villanmotorsports/BIV%20Bronco/engine%20trans%20swap/Engine%20rebuild/Turbobuild026.jpg
http://i128.photobucket.com/albums/p198/Villanmotorsports/BIV%20Bronco/engine%20trans%20swap/Engine%20rebuild/Turbobuild027.jpg
http://i128.photobucket.com/albums/p198/Villanmotorsports/BIV%20Bronco/engine%20trans%20swap/Engine%20rebuild/Turbobuild025.jpg

CopyKat

03-22-2009, 09:00 AM

More progress. I'll likely start tearing it down tonight so that the intake and exhaust can be fully welded and bolted back in for good.

http://i128.photobucket.com/albums/p198/Villanmotorsports/BIV%20Bronco/engine%20trans%20swap/Engine%20rebuild/Turbobuild033.jpg
http://i128.photobucket.com/albums/p198/Villanmotorsports/BIV%20Bronco/engine%20trans%20swap/Engine%20rebuild/Turbobuild032.jpg
http://i128.photobucket.com/albums/p198/Villanmotorsports/BIV%20Bronco/engine%20trans%20swap/Engine%20rebuild/Turbobuild031.jpg
http://i128.photobucket.com/albums/p198/Villanmotorsports/BIV%20Bronco/engine%20trans%20swap/Engine%20rebuild/Turbobuild030.jpg

Ckrue689

03-22-2009, 07:42 PM

Dude I so hope you plan on tying in a blow off valve, you might be able to get away without one but you can only run like 2 or 3 lbs of boost if that. I highly suggest it, on all the hondas i ran with boost that was my biggest concern because it turns into so much $$ in repairs if it doesnt open properly. But then it also sucks when they dont seat properly and you have a boost leak.. I suggest a greddy type S unit, very reliable and a decent price...

CopyKat

03-23-2009, 05:49 AM

Don't have one yet. After a bunch of reading and talking things over with my brother inlaw we figure I shouldn't need one. BUT......Just in case I do have one on the way.;)

Ckrue689

03-23-2009, 03:13 PM

Dude, its an extra hour of drilling a hole and welding a flange and it will save your motor. you do have a BOV? what brand and whats the spring rate?

CopyKat

03-23-2009, 06:46 PM

Hour to drill a hole??:eek:

I bought one the other day and it's on the way.

It's like this one.

http://cgi.ebay.com/ebaymotors/BLUE-TURBO-BLOW-OFF-VALVE-UNIVERSAL-Celica-Spura-Matrix_W0QQitemZ140308386763QQcmdZViewItemQQptZMot ors_Car_Truck_Parts_Accessories?hash=item140308386 763&_trksid=p4506.c0.m245&_trkparms=72%3A1171|65%3A12|39%3A1|240%3A1318

CopyKat

03-25-2009, 01:35 PM

Here is some progress I made last night.
http://i128.photobucket.com/albums/p198/Villanmotorsports/BIV%20Bronco/engine%20trans%20swap/Engine%20rebuild/Turbobuild049.jpg
http://i128.photobucket.com/albums/p198/Villanmotorsports/BIV%20Bronco/engine%20trans%20swap/Engine%20rebuild/Turbobuild042.jpg
http://i128.photobucket.com/albums/p198/Villanmotorsports/BIV%20Bronco/engine%20trans%20swap/Engine%20rebuild/Turbobuild043.jpg
http://i128.photobucket.com/albums/p198/Villanmotorsports/BIV%20Bronco/engine%20trans%20swap/Engine%20rebuild/Turbobuild040.jpg

More to come and hope to turn it over tonight.

CopyKat

03-26-2009, 06:41 PM

:D:D:D:D

YouTube - Turbostarted 001

YouTube - Turbostarted 002

Ckrue689

03-26-2009, 09:16 PM

CopyKat

03-27-2009, 06:49 AM

Dude thats badass right there.. what are you running for a boost controller though? how many psi are you set at?? Does it seem to spool up pretty quick? what size snail was that like a 75 or 80 mm????

Sorry so many questions....

I'm using a modified waste gate actuator to control boost. I might look around and find a controller to up the boost. I still have movement to preload the actuator spring. I'm working on getting the boost gauge installed. Just from reving it up I can see the wastgate moving ever so slightly. I'll know more once I get the truck out of the shop and on the road. Not sure on the mm size but it's a .63 AR. Housing.

Ckrue689

03-29-2009, 01:49 AM

Ive found some decent priced boost controllers on craigslist down here, be careful what electronics you buy on ebay, Greddy makes a bulletproof unit thats cheap, I have run on quite a few of my civics and integras but the apexi unit is VERY reliable and you have a bit more adjustment as far as timing advance/retard. That alone makes a huge difference as it prevents detonation and burnt valves, which has happened quite alot with me at high rpm...but then Im talking about a 9250 RPM redline...

Do you know the factory comp. ratio for that 4.0? run a compression and leak down test, that can also drastically increase the output of that motor especially with boost...

CopyKat

03-29-2009, 06:22 AM

From what I remember the factory compression ratio is about 9.5:1

I'll be making my own manual boost controller.:D
http://www.geocities.com/chmwatson/FAQs/mbc.html

Ckrue689

03-29-2009, 01:15 PM

thats a sweeet idea, see if you can mount it in the cab with a boost guage though, that way you can adjust it on the fly and not have to pop the hood everytime...

CopyKat

03-29-2009, 07:06 PM

It's one of those things you set it and kinda leave it. Once the boost is set I don't plan to change it at all.

CopyKat

03-30-2009, 02:13 PM

The boost controller is made. It's going to stay in the toolbox untill I need it. I'll try to dial in the boost with the wastegate actuator first. If I cut too much off the spring and don't get enough to boost to 6 PSI. I'll then use the boost controller I made.

CopyKat

04-09-2009, 01:11 PM

Got some Ricer components in the mail yesterday.

More fab work to be done to install this piece. The discharge will be routed back into the low pressure side of the intake.
http://i128.photobucket.com/albums/p198/Villanmotorsports/BIV%20Bronco/engine%20trans%20swap/Engine%20rebuild/Turbobuild058.jpg

Also got some new headlights. bye bye sealed beams, hello H4's.
http://i128.photobucket.com/albums/p198/Villanmotorsports/BIV%20Bronco/Exterior%20mods/Projectors001.jpg

Still more cool stuff coming in the mail.